-5- 



And here are the comments submitted by Dj.. V. G. Sprague; 



"Some years ago it was noted that the very heavily grazed Kentucky blue- 

 grass pastures in southwestern Wisconsin remained green during severe sum- 

 mer droughts whereas adjacent, moderately grazed pastures dried up and 

 turned brov/n. To investigate the reason for this, an experiment was per- 

 formed in the greenhouse. Low carbohydrate (-CHO) plants v;ere obtained 

 by frequent clipping. 



"In 1938 and 1939 here at the Laboratory a number of clones of Kentucky 

 bluegrass were grovm in gravel culture and the water used was measured. 

 A number of clipping treatments were used. The greatest amount of v;ater 

 was used v;hen the plants were clipped every 12 weeks and the least when 

 they were clipped every 10 days — .the ratio being about 8 to 1. The water 

 transpired by a plant increases considerably as it approaches and during 

 heading, or as the total leaf area increases. 



"For orchards, as a matter of conserving the moisture in the soil as well 

 as to provide a mulch which would allow greater infiltration, less runoff 

 and less surface evaporation, it would seem to me advisable to cut the 

 grass the first time about when the head was emerging and then later in 

 the summer when the recovery growth had attained any appreciable size- 

 say 10 inches high. It v:ould seem advisable to leave the cut grass on 

 the ground rather than remove it. This probably would have as great an 

 effect in increasing infiltration as in reducing evaporation since the 

 latter water loss is probably confined to the surface 4 or 5 inches—the 

 greatest v/ater loss from the soil being through the roots of growing 

 plants. On droughty soils or in years when drought appears imminent, 

 it might be advisable to out before the emergence of the head and clip 

 again vihon recovery was appreciable." 



— Y7m. G. Colby 



SELECTING THE BLUEBERRY SITE 



First of all, the location for the blueberry field should be as 

 free from the damage of late spring frosts as possible, for while the culti- 

 vated varieties seem to resist frost better than most of the native varieties, 

 they sometimes are injured in blossom time and even after fruit has started 

 growing. Select a site with good ai'r drainage, not a frost pocket. 



In selecting the site there are three important characteristics of 

 the soil to keep in mind; 



1. The soil must be acid. A soil with a pH test of 4.4 to 5.1 is best al- 

 though they will grovf where the soil is as low in acidity as pH 7. They vfill 

 stand high acidity better than too low acidity, and will do well in soils hav- 

 ing a pH test lower than 4.4. The Experiment Station will be glad to test 

 samples of soil at any time to determine the acidity. 



2. The soil must be loose in texture, either a sandy peat or a sandy loam. 

 A 50-50 sand and peat is perhaps ideal but providing the moisture is right, 

 a sandy loam gives very good results. Heavjr clay soils v;hich tend to pack 

 should be avoided, although they can be made more suitable by mixing in sand 

 or mulch. It is very iiaportant that soil is loose enough to enable the roots 

 to get their oxygen. 



