GLADIOLUS 289 



and a heavy retentive loam can be reduced to the proper state by the 

 admixture of lighter material. In any case it is advisable to begin 

 preparations in the autumn. Spread a thick layer of manure and dig 

 this in deeply, leaving the soil in a rough state to be disintegrated by 

 frosts. Before the time of planting arrives, it is worth some trouble 

 to free the ground from wireworms, or they will play havoc with the 

 growth just as it is appearing above ground. Potatoes serve admira- 

 bly as traps for these pests. 



Gladioli are peculiarly liable to injury from wind, so that a 

 sheltered but not a shaded position should, if possible, be chosen 

 for them. The time of planting depends partly on the district, 

 partly on the season ; but the soil must be in suitable condition, 

 and fine weather is necessary. From the middle of March to the 

 middle of April should afford some suitable opportunity of getting 

 the bulbs in satisfactorily. Give the land a light forking, not 

 deep enough to bring up the manure, and make the surface level. 

 The rows may be twelve or eighteen inches apart we prefer the 

 greater distance because of the convenience it affords in attending 

 to the plants when growing, and nine inches space is sufficient in 

 the rows. 



There are two methods of putting in the bulbs, each of which has 

 advocates among practised growers. One is to take out the soil with 

 a trowel to the depth of six or seven inches for each corm, then 

 insert about two inches of mixed sand and powdered charcoal or 

 wood ashes ; lay the root upon it, and carefully cover with fine soil. 

 If that process is considered too tedious, draw a deep drill with a hoe, 

 and at the bottom put the light mixture already named ; place the 

 roots at regular distances upon it, and lightly return the top soil. 

 The operation should be so performed as to leave the crown of the 

 corm four inches below the surface ; and when planting is completed 

 give the bed a finishing touch with the rake. 



One eminent grower strips off the outer coat or skin of each bulb 

 before planting to ascertain that there is no disease, and this cannot 

 otherwise be discovered. No doubt the procedure prevents the bed 

 from showing blanks, but that object can be more safely attained by 

 growing a reserve in pots. There is, however, another practice which 

 possesses very decided advantages, and it is to open carefully the 

 skin at the crown of the bulb to allow the foliage free exit. The 

 skin is so tough that it is frequently the means of distorting the 

 plant in its attempt to struggle through. 



The bed for a time needs little attention, except to keep it free 



u 



