40 Encyclopaedia of Gardening 



By standing the pots on a bed of cinders and covering with a few 

 inches of cocoa-nut fibre refuse, the bulbs can be safely disposed of 

 for 6 or 8 weeks. They will not want watering. The fibre will 

 check top-growth till root action has developed, which is desirable. 

 The tips should not extend more than an inch in the fibre, however. 

 When brought out the plants can be kept quite cool, or subjected 

 to gentle heat, according as late or early bloom is wanted. Strong 

 heat is not desirable. With water, staking, liquid manure twice a 

 week when buds show, and a light, airy place, the plants will be 

 successful. Tulips and Daffodils may be planted out after they 

 have gone out of bloom if desired, but Hyacinths are not worth 

 keeping. 



Bulbs in bowls of fibre. This modern method of growing bulbs 

 has much to recommend it, especially from the point of view of the 

 room-gardener. It is clean, interesting, light, and gives results 

 equal to those from pots. Wide-mouthed, dark green China bowls, 

 costing threepence to a shilling each, according to size, are suitable. 

 Peat-moss fibre, mixed with fine shell and a little charcoal, is the 

 material used. It should be thoroughly moistened while it is being 

 turned about in the mixing process. Tulips and Daffodils, used in 

 threes in 6-in.-wide bowls, look well. Hyacinths and Liliums 

 may be used also. The tips of the bulbs may protrude slightly from 

 the fibre, which should be made firm. As soon as the bowls are 

 filled they should be stood in a dark, cool place. A dry cupboard 

 near a fire is not good ; a cellar is better. The fibre must never be 

 allowed to remain quite dry for long. In 6 or 8 weeks the bowls 

 may be brought into the light. Stakes will be needed for the 

 Hyacinths and the larger Daffodils. 



Bulbs in water. Water culture is not practised much now that 

 fibre has proved so good, but Hyacinths may be grown in glasses if 

 desired. The cottage widow loves to have a few glasses on her 

 window-ledge, and her better-placed sisters also find great interest 

 and pleasure in this system of culture. All bulb dealers and most 

 crockery makers supply suitable glasses, which only need filling 

 with clean water containing 2 or 3 pieces of charcoal to be ready 

 for the bulbs. Even, firm-based bulbs should be chosen, and set 

 in just above the water. A few weeks in the dark will set the roots 

 moving freely, and then the plants can have light. Wire supports 

 will be needed when the plants bloom. 



Bulbs in boxes for transplanting. When dealing with bulbs in 

 autumn it is a good plan to fill one or two shallow boxes with Tulips 

 and Daffodils, as it often happens that places can be found for bowls 

 of bulbs in spring which are not vacant in autumn. The plants 

 can be shifted successfully from the boxes when they are in bud, 

 and if moss is packed round and over them they look fresh, neat, 

 natural, and pretty when they come into bloom. 



Bulbs in bowls of water. Bulbs may also be grown in bowls 

 partially filled with bright, clean pebbles and then filled up with 

 water. Polyanthus Narcissi look very nice done in this way. The 

 "" Joss Lily/' so popular a few years ago, belongs to this class. 



Bulbs in window-boxes. All the popular kinds come in very useful 

 for window-boxes when the summer occupants are cleared away. 



