Encyclopaedia of Gardening 7 



allotments, and in some cases pigs and poultry may be kept on 

 them; but in view of the fact that the plots are generally held on 

 a yearly tenancy, it is not the rule for holders to go to much expense 

 for buildings or fittings. Large structures, which might keep the 

 sun from other plots, should not be permitted. Land for allotments 

 can generally be got without serious difficulty in the country, but 

 in case of trouble parish councils have the power of acquiring land 

 for the purpose. It is desirable that the ground be reasonably 

 near the cottages, and that it be fair agricultural land. The pieces 

 should be cut up into parallel rectangular strips. Twenty square 

 rods, poles, or perches (equal to an eighth of an acre) constitute a 

 good average size, but it may vary according to circumstances. It 

 is often more convenient to make smaller plots. Much larger ones 

 are best avoided, as a man who is following a regular occupation 

 throughout the day can hardly keep more than 20 rods clean and 

 well cropped. Most of the county councils give instruction in 

 allotment cultivation through their staff instructors. Deep culture 

 and correct manuring are advised. The soil should be double dug 

 (see Kitchen Garden Bastard trenching) and manured (see Manures) . 

 Except in particular circumstances, vegetables should have most 

 of the space. The principal crops are Potatoes, Winter Greens 

 (Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, and Savoys), Onions, Cabbages, 

 . Beetroot, Carrots, Parsnips, Cauliflowers, Celery, Tomatoes, Peas, 

 Beans, Turnips, Leeks, Vegetable Marrows, and Rhubarb. Arti- 

 chokes, Spinach, Shallots, Cucumbers, Horseradish, Salads 

 (Lettuces, Radishes, etc.), and Herbs (Mint, Sage, Thyme, and so 

 forth), may also be grown if desired. It is a good plan to arrange 

 these in some order, and crop the ground in rotations. This is not 

 easy on very small plots, where it is necessary to give up nearly half 

 the ground to Potatoes, but it is not altogether impossible. In 

 the first place, the vegetables might be thrown into three groups: 

 (i) Potatoes and Winter Greens (the latter to be planted between or 

 after early Potatoes in summer) ; (2) Peas, Beans, Turnips, Celery, 

 Leeks, Spinach, and Onions (the Turnips and Spinach going between 

 the Peas and Beans, the Leeks and Celery following the early Peas 

 in summer); (3) Beet, Carrot, Parsnips, and Tomatoes. The 

 following year Sections 2 and 3, taken together, may change places 

 with Section i. The third year Section 2 may occupy the ground 

 which Section 3 had the first year, and Section 3 that of Section 2, 

 Section i going back to its original place. The principal crops not 

 provided for may be arranged as follows : Cabbages for spring may 

 be raised early in August and planted in October on ground cleared 

 of Onions. Cauliflowers for autumn may be sown in spring and 

 planted in summer after early Peas or Potatoes. Rhubarb, Arti- 

 chokes, and Herbs may have a permanent place at one end of the 

 plot. Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers may be raised in pots, 

 and planted out in summer between early Peas, to subsequently 

 succeed them. Lettuces may be grown on Celery ridges or between 

 Peas. The various kinds are all dealt with under Kitchen Garden 

 in this work. It is not, as a rule, wise to plant much fruit on small 

 allotments, and in any case the trees should not be mixed up in- 

 discriminately with the vegetables. If planted, they should either 



