Encyclopaedia of Gardening 161 



the first year. Fruiting : Strong young plants are quite likely to 

 bear some fruit the first year that is, the summer after being 

 struck. Long, clean straw should be spread between the rows when 

 they come into bloom, partly to protect the flowers against a late 

 frost, but mainly to prevent the fruit from being soiled in wet 

 weather. If the straw is removed at the end of summer, the weeds 

 cleared off, runners cut away, and the soil stirred, the plants will 

 bear a splendid crop the second year. Thereafter the cropping 

 will turn upon the treatment. If the beds are well dressed annually 

 and are given liquid manure in summer, with artificial manure in 

 the form of sulphate of potash and superphosphate between the 

 rows in February, they will yield good crops for several years. On 

 the other hand, if the beds are allowed to get crowded, and are not 

 properly cleaned and manured, the fruit soon becomes small. A 

 few plants in most beds fail to bloom, and they should be destroyed, 

 as if left runners may be taken from them inadvertently, and the 

 stock of barren plants increased. Forcing : Those who want 

 Strawberries in spring should either buy plants ready prepared for 

 the purpose, or shift home-raised plants from small into 6-in. pots 

 in September, using loamy soil with a dash of leaf mould and sand. 

 The plants will make a nice plump fruiting crown before winter. 

 They can be put into a gently heated house in January or later. A 

 temperature of 55 to 65 will be better than a very high one. A 

 place near the glass is desirable, otherwise the flower stems will run 

 up weakly and the fruit be poor. A dozen fruits will be enough to 

 each plant. Water and weak liquid manure should be given while 

 the crop is swelling. Mildew : Strawberries are much subject to 

 mildew, which often whitens the foliage completely. The best 

 remedy is liver of sulphur, which, however, is only effectual when the 

 crystals are kept perfectly fresh up to the time of use in a sealed 

 receptacle. Half an ounce per gallon of water will suffice. The 

 liquid thus made is green, and has an offensive smell. It must be 

 used at the first stage of attack. Varieties : For earliness, produc- 

 tiveness, and good flavour combined there is no Strawberry superior 

 to Royal Sovereign. Other good all-rounders are Sir Joseph Paxton, 

 Reward, and Bedford Champion. One of the best late sorts is 

 Givon's Late Prolific. Royal Sovereign and Sir Joseph Paxton are 

 the two most important market varieties, but Bedford Champion 

 and Trafalgar are gaining favour. Those who want to make Straw- 

 berry jam in quantity should grow the little variety Grove End 

 Scarlet, as it keeps its shape well. The same remark applies to 

 Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury. Perpetual Strawberries : The non- 

 professional who reads of Strawberries that give large crops every 

 month in the year should remain sceptical, but he may, if he likes, 

 try a few rows of Laxton's Perpetual or St. Joseph, as these small- 

 fruited varieties certainly bear successional crops. 



Walnut (Juglans regia). The Walnut is hardly a fruit for small 

 gardens, but it is ornamental enough to claim a place in a large 

 garden, and also in parks, while the nuts are highly esteemed. It is 

 a hardy tree, and thrives in most soils unless very poor, dry, and 

 shallow. The nuts are thrashed down in their thick coats in early 

 autumn, and stored for use in winter. 





