SALMON-FISHING. 347 



size as the smaller rod, and the lower ferule the sixteenth of 

 an inch larger. The butt should be of the best coarse-grained 

 white ash ; the second joint of hickory or iron wood ; the 

 third of lance or iron wood ; and the tip of the best Malacca 

 cane, rent and glued. The strain on a tip caused by the oft- 

 repeated lifting of a long line from the water, makes it neces- 

 sary that it should be of material of the closest and hardest 

 fibre ; for the weight of the line is not sufficient to throw the 

 strain on the lower portion of the rod, as in killing a fish ; 

 but the constant lifting of the line from the water preparatory 

 to casting it, gives the top a downward swag in a week or 

 two, which makes it necessary that the angler should provide 

 himself with one or two extra tips. 



The advice of English authors, to have the rod-rings very 

 large, that the line may pass through freely, shows a want of 

 proper consideration ; for if there should be a knot or kink 

 in the line, it would be certain to catch in passing through 

 the wire loop at the end of the tip. The large size of the 

 rings, therefore, would not provide for the contingency, while 

 they are awkward and rattle in the wind, augmenting the 

 resistance to the air in casting, and increasing the leverage 

 on the rod when killing a Salmon. In making a couple of 

 Salmon- rods for my own use, I went in direct opposition to this 

 antiquated notion, and put on metallic guides like those on 

 American bass rods, but lighter, and find them far preferable 

 to rings. In fastening on the reel I use but one reel-band, 

 which is stationary ; under this I slip one end of the brass 

 plate to which the reel is fastened, and secure the other end 

 with a string, so as to avoid the contingency of the sliding- 

 band becoming tight by the expansion of the butt of the rod 

 from moisture, as already explained in my remarks on Trout- 

 rods. 



