98 MEMORIAL SKETCH. 



In the next summer, when the Poraipine was anchored 

 off Goletta, the little harbour of Tunis, science gave way to 

 sight-seeing. The Mediterranean had, in fact, yielded less 

 zoological results than were expected ; but even this nega- 

 tive issue was not without its consolations. " After all," re- 

 flected Dr. Carpenter, " it was something to have found out 

 *' that there was nothing to find." 



Malta, September 13, 1870. 



On Monday morning we got up very early, breakfasting at 

 five o'clock, to go up to Tunis, for which the little steamer that 

 runs up and down the lake ordinarily leaves at six. But when 

 we got on shore we learned that there was not enough water in 

 the lake, and had to take a carriage to drive round it. This 

 was tiresome, as the drive was very uninteresting, the country 

 being quite level for miles round, and very arid, the only green 

 at this season being that of the olive tree. The only feature of 

 interest was a fine group of mountains at some distance, about 

 the scale of Goatfell and Ben Huish,* and not unlike them in 

 outline. The appearance of Tunis itself did not improve as we 

 approached it. Excepting a few villas, which are chiefly occupied 

 as consular residences, it is entirely included within a wall ; and 

 when we passed the gates we found ourselves in very narrow 

 roads, with continuous dead walls on either side, ocoasionally 

 pierced by doorways, which led to the interior of the houses. 



We at last came into the principal open space of the town, 

 where what were formerly the palaces of the Bey and his principal 

 ministers are now the consular and other public offices, the 

 palaces being outside the walls. Having learned that the Bey 

 sits on Monday mornings at his palace to hear causes, we at 

 once went on to it, and found it a by no means imposing-looking 

 building, with numerous courtyards, at some distance outside 

 the town. We were shown into a room, from which we had a 

 view of one of these courtyards, in which the guard was relieved, 

 with the usual European ceremonial and the performance of the 

 military band. There was something in the whole affair which 



* Mountains in Arran, which constantly served as a family standard for 

 comparison. 



