xii CONTENTS 



I'ACE 



The native and mission capital — Collecting porters 



— Engaging * boys ' — Start ' on safari ' - - 29 



CHAPTER IV 



TRAVELLING IN UGANDA 

 A String of shells and its uses — Travelling in Uganda — 

 The best hour of the day — A chorus of birds — 

 Porters' laziness and greed — ' Elephant - grass ' — 

 Incidents along the road — A jodelling porter — 

 Missionaries and pineapples — Rest-houses — 'Jiggers ' 

 — Visits from chiefs— Evenings in camp - - 40 



CHAPTER V 



THE PROVINCE OF TORO 



Toro, the Western Province of Uganda — King Kasa- 

 gama — No sign of Ruwenzori — View of Lake Albert 

 — Exaggerated accounts of Ruwenzori — The waters 

 of Ruwenzori — Start from Toro — Religious fervour 

 of the porters — Two missionaries — Scenery changing 

 — ' Gamballagalia!' — Snow-mountains at sunrise — 

 Was it an optical illusion ? — A recollection of Mont 

 Blanc — The icy Mubuku — Join the British Museum 

 Expedition - - - - 53 



CHAPTER VI 



THE EAST SIDE OF RUWENZORI 



Our base-camp at Bihunga — Natural history collections 

 — Natives as naturalists — Mountain flower-gardens 

 — The scenery of the lower slopes of Ruwenzori — 

 The mountain forest — Views of the higher peaks — 

 Rain and fog — An Austrian climber — Monkeys and 

 chimpanzees— Lions and wild pigs — Houses of the 

 Bakonjo — Cultivation — Ruwenzori treacle — The 

 natives as musicians - - - 65 



