KAMPALA 35 



Waganda with infinite noise and fuss. Two Chinese 

 or Japanese coolies would have covered the same 

 distance in half the time, and in a dignified silence, 

 but the native of Africa, particularly the semi- 

 civilized variety inhabiting Uganda, on the rare 

 occasions when he does do any work, wastes half 

 his energy in proclaiming the fact to the world, and 

 generally has the impertinence to demand baksheesh 

 in addition to a liberal payment. This road is the 

 beginning of the great highway from the Victoria 

 Nyanza to Lake Albert and the Upper Nile. It is 

 already possible to drive as far as Hoima, the 

 capital of Unyoro, and in a short time tourists will 

 be able to travel by rickshaw and steamer from 

 Entebbe to Khartoum. 



Kampala is built, like Rome, on seven hills, and 

 a tour of inspection is not a thing to be undertaken 

 lightly. The most striking feature of Kampala, 

 and one which can be seen from many miles away, 

 is the Protestant cathedral, with its two towers 

 standing well upon the highest hill. The building, 

 which is of native bricks and of timber cut in the 

 forests hard by, and thatched with native grass, was 

 constructed entirely by native workmen, and may 

 fairly claim to be the greatest wonder of Uganda, 

 if not of all Equatorial Africa. The name of 

 Mr. Borup, the architect, who had, I believe, never 

 built a church before, should surely go down to 

 posterity as of one who has achieved a great and 

 lasting work. Another, and perhaps the most 



