62 THE PROVINCE OF TORO 



were unmistakably mountain streams, but though 

 the sun blazed and there was never a cloud in the 

 sky, early and late a thin haze hid everything a mile 

 or two away from view. At another time of the 

 year, when I was walking along the same road, I 

 saw the most glorious views of Ruwenzori, and 

 could hardly believe that I had seen nothing before. 

 But the mountains did at last disclose themselves, 

 and in so magnificent a fashion that I was almost 

 glad that they had remained hidden so long. We 

 were camped a few miles up the biggest valley of 

 the east side of the mountains, within a few hours 

 of the end of the journey, when I was roused early 

 from my bed by the cry of ' Gamballagalla !' (the 

 Uganda name of Ruwenzori), and on coming out 

 from the tent I saw a sight which was reward 

 enough for the longest journey. What had seemed 

 the night before to be a mere gap in the low hills 

 was seen to be a noble mountain valley with steep 

 grass-covered slopes and wooded ridges. Above 

 was a bold buttress of sheer black crags, and beyond 

 these towered a snow-peak. Poised almost upon 

 the topmost pinnacle was the setting moon, a few 

 days past the full. Whilst we looked the moon 

 sank out of sight, and a rosy flush spread over the 

 ice and snow, A few moments more and the snow 

 had vanished like a puff of smoke ; a flood of sun- 

 light turned the black crags to a flaming orange, 

 and the grass in the valley glittered with a million 

 drops of dew. I rubbed my eyes and wondered 



