114 THE PLAINS OF RUISAMBA 



round it twice, I could not find a trace of water 

 flowing either into or out of the lake ; so it may be 

 that the water, which was formerly fresh, is now 

 becoming too salt for the fish, but it is impossible 

 to say for certain. Whatever the cause may be, 

 they are dying in tens of thousands, and their bones 

 are piled in some places a foot high all round the 

 lake, where they provide occupation for a host of 

 marabouts and black and white crows. When a 

 breeze is blowing, the wise man passes to windward 

 of the lake. 



Beyond Kikarongo the country opens out into a 

 wide plain of short grass — that is, grass about waist 

 high — and scattered euphorbias. On our right hand 

 were the last dwindling spurs of Ruwenzori, and on 

 our left, beyond the plains, lay the dark green 

 papyrus swamps at the end of Ruisamba, and far 

 beyond that again the rising hills of Ankole. On 

 all sides of us were swarms of small antelopes, the 

 commonest being Thomas' cob and reedbuck. The 

 former is a graceful tawny creature with horns like 

 a big gazelle and a conspicuous white throat. He 

 strolls off quietly, and stares at us as we pass within 

 fifty or sixty yards. The reedbuck is smaller, of a 

 sandy-grey colour, and with short horns that curve 

 forwards. He leaps up from the grass where he 

 has been lying, dashes off in great bounds, almost 

 turning somersaults as he goes, then stops short, 

 turns round, and whistles shrilly at us. This is (or 

 was at that time) a game reserve, so that the animals 



