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a crop or two while those are making their wood 

 and forming their fruit spurs, and, hy being 

 checked by their removal, may not be expected 

 to put forth much voung wood while they re- 

 main there, it will be unnecessary in pruning 

 to thin them out much, only let them be dressed 

 regularly to the trellis, and (where not abso- 

 hitely requisite) divesting them of any shoots 

 they may n-ake, paying respect to their fruit- 

 spurs only; as when they have served this pur- 

 pose they will be of no further use." 



He says, that " after planting, the dwarfs, if 

 maiden trees, should be headed down to two or 

 three eyes, in order to make them put forth vi- 

 gorous shoots, to furnish the trellis from the 

 bottom : and, if they have been one year in 

 training, the bottom branches should be laid 

 well down, and the rest dressed in a regular 

 manner to the trellis, using strings of fresh 

 matting to tie with ; and be careful to allow suf- 

 ficient room in the ties, as much mischief is 

 done to fruit, especially Cherry-trees, (which 

 are so apt to gum) if not allowed a sufficiency 

 of room. He makes it a rule to allow every 

 shoot as much room in the shred, or tie, as 

 will at least admit another of the same size along 

 with it." 



As these trees are " apt to gum, and the 

 branches decay, from the slightest injury, it 

 would be imprudent to train them horizontally; 

 in which case, the loss of a branch is st'.pplied 

 with much more difficulty than when trained in 

 the fan manner." This last method he therefore 

 recommends. And " when the tree has pro- 

 duced its shoots to the length of five or six 

 inches, they should be gone over and thinned, 

 so as to enable the operator to lay them in at 

 about the distance of ten or twelve inches ; 

 pinching off any that are produced fore-right, 

 and which arc, from their appearance, not 

 forming for fruit-spurs ; and, as they advance, 

 let them be neatly laid in, and divested of any 

 laterals they may produce. If all has gone well, 

 at the end of the first year they will, he says, have 

 produced shoots from twelve to thirty inches 

 long, which should then be shortened to about 

 two-thirds of their length. In the second sea- 

 son they will shoot vigorously, and begin to 

 form many fruit-spurs on the preceding year's 

 wood, which must be encouraged, for the pro- 

 duction of a few fruit the following year. The 

 trees should be kept clear of all sujjerfluous and 

 lateral shoots, laying the leading ones at the 

 distance of eight or nine inches; and, at the 

 end of the season, shortening a few of the 

 strongest alternatelv, so as to make them break 

 their buds in the spring in a regular maimer; as 

 they will not require to' be any more shortened. 



And in the third season, they will, he says, 

 produce a few fruit, make fine spu^s and mode- 

 rate shoots ; which, as they advance to the 

 riders, room should be given, by lopping off 

 their branches, or thui:iing away their foliage, 

 so as to afford a tree circulation of air and ad- 

 mission of sun. In the fourth season, they 

 will produce a full crop of fruit ; and often make 

 such a progress towaids the riders, that their 

 presence becomes unnccessar\ ; in which case, it 

 will, he says, be advisable to sacrifice whatever 

 fruit, or appearance thereof, there may be on 

 them, to the encouragement of the principals. 

 After the trees have filled their spaces, and have 

 begun to produce plentiful crops of fruit, they 

 will make little or no wood ; and will require no 

 further care, on the score of training, than to 

 supply the place of any branch that from acci- 

 dent may die out or be destroyed." 



These trees, from their nature, bear very little 

 artificial (especially fire) heat, on which account 

 he would not advise the forcing of them too early, 

 especially if there be no more than one compart- 

 ment for their culture ; since, in that case, there 

 would not be a continued succession for the sup- 

 ply of the table, and furnishing a dessert, till 

 they came in on the open walls. He considers 

 the first or middle of February to be an eligible 

 time for the commencement of the forcing ; but, 

 in a new planted house, the third year ought to 

 arrive bctore fire heat is applied. Were it not 

 for the sake of other articles that may be placed 

 or planted in the Cherry-house, it would, he 

 thinks, be better that the glasses were not put 

 on the first season at all ; but this is generally 

 too great a sacrifice: however, if they are put 

 on, a free circulation of fresh air, even in the 

 nia'ht, ought to be encouraged. When in the 

 third year after planting, the trees have made 

 good progress, plenty of IVuit-spurs, and a rea- 

 sonable hope of success is entertained, the 

 glasses should be put on about the middle of 

 January, plenty of air being admitted through 

 the day, shutting them up at night. On the 

 first of February the fire may be lighted, which 

 must, he says, be made so moderate, that, 

 at eight at night, and eight in the morning, 

 Fahrenheit's thermometer may not stand above 

 40". In which condition it should be kept as 

 near as possible till about the twentieth ot the 

 month; and then increased gradually to 45°: 

 at which point endeavour to keep it till the fruit 

 is fairly set. Afterwards increase the heat to 

 50°, but not more, till the stoning is over, and 

 the fruit are begun their second swelling. Al- 

 though, for the sake of the fruit, all danger is 

 then past; yet, if too strong a fire heat is in- 

 dulged in, it will, he savs, have the tendency of 

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