U L M 



U R E 



should have one or two years growth in the 

 seed-bed, and then be planted out in nursery- 

 lines, in rows two or three feet asunder, and the 

 plants fifteen or eighteen inches distant in each 

 vow, giving them the common nursery care, 

 and training them for the purposes intended. 

 If for standards, for timber, or ornamental 

 plantations, they should be trained each to a 

 •single stem, and as tliev advance in height 

 clearing the stems from all lateral shoots, leaving 

 only the very small twigs, just to draw and de- 

 tain the sap, for the better increase of the stem ; 

 suffering the leadmg top-shoot to remain entire, 

 as also the principal branches of the head ; but 

 those designed for hedge-work, &c., should be 

 ■let branch out all the way, and become feathered 

 to the bottom, or as low as may be requisite for 

 the purposes intended, only trimming them oc- 

 casionally with the knife or garden shears, to 

 give them the intended form. When the trees 

 have had four or five years growth, and are from 

 four or five to six, eight, or ten feet high, they 

 are fit for planting out where they are to remain. 



The suckers which most of the sorts send up 

 from the roots, but especially the English and 

 Dutch sorts should be taken up carefidly with root- 

 fibres, in autumn, winter, or spring, trimming 

 them ibr planting by cutting tliem down at top 

 to six or eight inches, placing them in small 

 trenches or drills, five or six inches deep, orte 

 row in each, half a foot apart, and the drills 

 about half a yard asunder; giving waterings in 

 spring and summer; letting them remain two 

 years, to form good roots, then planting them 

 in wide nursery-rows, and managing them as 

 directed for the seedlings. 



The layers of all the sorts may easily be made 

 by previously preparing a quantity of stools to 

 produce shoots, situated near the ground : the 

 proper season for laying them down is in the 

 autumn, winter, or early in the spring, per- 

 formmg it by slit-laying; and as soon as the 

 whole are laved and moulded in, every layer 

 should be lopped with a knife, down to one eve 

 above the ground. In this way they readilv take 

 root in the spring and summer following, shoot- 

 ing at top sometimes two or three feet long 

 by the autumn, when they sliould be detached 

 from the stools, and be planted in nursery-rows, 

 two feet or a yard asunder, and half a vard 

 distant in the rows: when they besin to shoot 

 they should be trained with one leading shoot 

 only, as the seedling Elms, managing them in 

 the same manner. 



In the grafting method all the varieties of 

 elms may be increascl and continued distinct, 

 which should be done upon stocks of the Wycli 

 ■Elm, raised from seed, suckers, or layers. 



though the seedling stocks are preferable. For 

 which purpose some rows of Wveh Elms should 

 be allotted for stocks, which, after having two 

 years growth in the nursery-lines, will be fit to 

 graft on: when about the beginning of February, 

 the cuttings of the young moderate shoots of 

 the best English Eln), or any other variety, 

 should be inserted into the stocks by the 

 method of whip-grafting, putting them in as 

 low as possible, for which the earth should be 

 removed awav a little down to each root, then 

 cutting off the head of the slock, within two or 

 three inches of the bottom ; the grafts be in- 

 serted one in each stock, as above, binding 

 them close, and claying them well ; then draw- 

 ing the earth up about and over the clay, the 

 more effectuallv to secure it from falling off by 

 the effects of frost or other causes : when they 

 begin to shoot they should be trained with only' 

 one leading shoot, so that if they fork at top 

 into two or more the weakest should be taken 

 off, leaving the best shoot for the leader ; dis- 

 placing all large side-shoots from the stems, and 

 letting the tops or leading shoots remain always 

 entire, as also the general upper branches of the 

 heads. 



These trees are highly useful, both for timber 

 and in the way of ornament, when planted out 

 singly on large open spaces ; likewise for being 

 clipped, or cut into particular forms, and as 

 forming hedges in various situations. 



UMBRELLA TREE. See Magnolia. 



URENA, a genus comprising plants of the 

 woody perennial exotic kind. 



It belongs to the class and order Monadelphia 

 Poli/andriaf and ranks in the natural order of 

 Columniferce. 



The characters are : that the calyx is a double 

 perianth : outer one-leafed, five-cleft : seg- 

 ments wider: inner five-leaved : leaflets narrow, 

 angular, permanent : the corolla has five petals, 

 oblong, wider at the tip, blunt with a point, 

 narrower at the base, growing to the tube of 

 stamens : the stamina have numerous filaments, 

 united at the bottom into a tube, at top free : 

 anthers roundish : the pislillum is a roundish 

 germ, five-cornered : style simple, length of 

 the stamens, ten-cleft: stigmas headed, hairj', 

 reflexed : the pericarpium is a roundish capsule, 

 echinate, five-cornered, five-celled, or soluble 

 into five close cells : the seeds solitary, on one 

 side roundish, on the other angular-compressed, 



The species cultivated are: 1. U. lohala, 

 Angular-leaved Urena : 2. U. s'unaita, Cut- 

 leaved Urena. 



The first rises with an upright stalk upwards 

 of two feet high, which becomes woody tow ards 

 the autumn, "it sends out a lew side branehts 



