LA GUAIKA. 3 



directly into the sea, with nothing to break the force of the 

 winds or waves. In the absence of a breakwater, which 

 might easily be constructed, wharves are, of course, useless. 

 Vessels are therefore obliged to anchor some distance 

 from land, and unload their cargoes by means of lighters. 

 The position of the town, wedged in between Mount Silla 

 and the sea, on a strip of land scarcely three hundred 

 yards in its greatest breadth, backed by an enormous 

 rocky wall, reflecting the heat of the sun on the red-tiled 

 roofs and stony pavements, renders it, according to Hum- 

 boldt, the hottest place upon the earth. La Guaira has a 

 population of about eight thousand. There are a theatre 

 and two churches ; one of the latter, the temple of San 

 Juan de Dios, is one of the most elegant edifices in Vene- 

 zuela. As we wander through the long, narroAV streets 

 of this antiquated city, we meet groups of every shade 

 of complexion and in every variety of costume, from the 

 gayly-dressed seiiora in her flounces and extended trail, 

 with a black-laccd mantilla over the shoulders and a veil 

 upon her head, to the negro boasting of pants and hat, 

 and the urchin clad only in Nature's simple garb. 



Leaving the narrow and crowded streets, v.'e clamber 

 to the fortifications which lift their battlements above the 

 town. A few cannon frown defiantly through the embra- 

 sures and over the parapets. Soldiers in almost as many 

 different costumes as in number, w^ith " arms at will," are 

 lazily guai-ding the works. From this stand-point, we 

 have a fine view of the city and its environs ; but we can- 

 not tarry long, for twilight is already deepening, and we 

 are reminded that in the tropics darkness quickly suc- 

 ceeds. We therefore hastily descend to our hotel, stop- 

 ping for a moment to view the evening muster of the sol- 

 diers within the fortifications that line the shore. Tliese 

 works are quite formidable as well as those overlooking 

 the town on the mountain-side, and if well manned would 



