PKEPAEATIONS TO EESUME OUK JOUENEY. 91 



great a gormandizer as Viviano, our Pao boatman ; for he 

 was, seemingly, never happy unless calling for " El doc- 

 tor," who would comply with his peremptory demands 

 for bread, fruits, and the long list of edibles, which he 

 would roll off in Spanish, like some old veteran in the lan- 

 guage. Among his larger fondlings was a young jaguar, 

 or tiger, which, although quite large, evinced none of the 

 unpleasant traits ascribed to that species. This animal the 

 doctor desii-ed us to accept and take to our country ; but 

 lack of transportation privileges, with the thought of a 

 jaguar in the same bongo with ourselves, for a voyage of 

 two thousand miles, led us reluctantly to decline the prof- 

 fered gift. What contributed still more to the pleasure 

 of our visit in San Fernando, was our further acquaintance 

 with General E. Este, who was unremitting in his atten- 

 tions, and who could, withal, converse in our native tongue, 

 a treat we always richly enjoyed, and which was not again 

 afforded us until we reached the Amazons. 



Three days had been spent at San Fernando, when, an 

 opportunity presenting itself whereby we could proceed on 

 our journey to the Orinoco, we determined to embrace it. 

 Two large bongos,, freighted with maize, papelon, and 

 aguardiente, and accompanied by a small canoe, were on 

 their return down the Apure, and were ready to start 

 within two hours from the time we first received intima- 

 tion of their intended departure. As the large boats were 

 heavily loaded, the little craft was to convey us to Asaiba, 

 a hacienda upon Rio Clarito, where we could exchange for 

 one of the bongos, which, with a reduced cargo, from that 

 place was destined for Urbana on the Orinoco. Having 

 been promised letters of recommendation from the presi- 

 dent of the province of Apure, we sought the chief execu- 

 tive at his private residence. Reaching the house designa- 

 ted to us, rather an inferior one even for San Fernando, 

 we passed through the open arcade, and, crossing the court- 



