CHAPTER X 



UP THE ORINOCO 



Farewell to Urbana. — Strait of Baraguan. — Mirage. — Harvest of Turtles' 

 Eggs. — Camp of Indians. — Santa Barbara. — Indian Simplicity and Be- 

 liefs. — Features of the Elver. — Castillo de los Espanoles. — A Legend. — 

 Fiedra del Tigre. — Music iu the Eocks. — Eaudal de Cariben. — Eio 

 Meta. — A Wild Scene. — Bats and Other Annoyances. 



IJpoisr the afternoon of the 9th of November, with sails 

 set and flag floating, wc took our departure from Urhana, 

 amid the vivas of the inhabitants who lined the shore, 

 and were borne swiftly along by the breeze which swept 

 up the river. To avoid the strong current and catch the 

 wind, we hugged the southern bank, drawing up at sun- 

 set to a, plar/a, or sandy beach, some two hundred yards in 

 breadth, left dry by the falling of the waters. Here we 

 spread our blankets and stretched our mosquiteros over 

 us, by fastening them to the palancas of the boat, stuck 

 in the ground ; but this jirecaution was unnecessary, for 

 all insectile pests are swept by the winds fi*om these barren 

 sand-stretches. Wild ducks and geese stalked the playa, 

 casting suspicious glances toward our encampment; but 

 they were shy, and we were unsuccessful in our attempts 

 to secure some for breakfast. 



It was scarcely light when we were again breasting 

 the strong current, propelled by the paddles of our swarthy 

 trio. At 9 A. M., the wind rising, the sail was hoisted, 

 and the men rested upon their benches. About noon v/e 



