VILLAGE OF ATUKES. 143 



Our practico, or pilot, arriving from the village by 

 sunrise, we commenced the passage of the rapids. The 

 river, a third of a mile in breadth, emerged from the 

 first line of obstructions in two main channels, along each 

 of which rolled a tremendous flood over the stony blocks 

 that filled their beds, while between these were numerous 

 small openings in the islands and rocks, througli which 

 the Avaters poured in whirling eddies and dangerous whirl- 

 pools, Lanchas, or large canoes, descending in time of 

 high water — for at no other season can they descend the 

 rapids — choose the large channel upon the west ; but no 

 craft can ever ascend against the powerful current and 

 heavy breakers of this river-torrent. Plunging into the 

 swift stream, we pulled over to one of the small channels, 

 and then upon an island landed our stores, which were 

 carried over a short portage to where, if successful, we 

 would again embark. Noav, entering the rapids, we clam- 

 ber over the huge granitic bowlders, springing from rock 

 to rock, pulling our boat along through the whirling 

 waters : sometimes a pi'ojecting point must be reached ; 

 when, with rope in hand, a native plunges into the river, 

 but often the bold adventurer is borne down by the im- 

 petuous torrent. At length, after several unsuccessful 

 attempts, the crag is reached; he is joined by others, and 

 the boat is hauled up past the obstruction. But now 

 another obstacle, perhaps more difficult and dangerous 

 slill, presents itself. Some climb the rocks, while others 

 swim the breakers, and thus from crag to crag, with push- 

 ing, pulling, and poling, we slowly make our way up the 

 cataracts. At length a cliff lifts its bold front directly in 

 our pathway, beneath whose stony masses the roaring 

 waters flow in subterranean caverns. Over the granitic 

 pile we with difficulty drag our canoe, when the first line 

 of barriers is overcome, and we float into smoother water. 

 Reloading our craft, wc pull up, through verdant and pic- 



