186 VOYAGE DOWN THE EIO NEGEO. 



ing here and there with it through the labyrinth of chan- 

 nels which constitute the countless arms of this wonderful 

 river. Often, when supposing ourselves alongside of the 

 main shore, we would come to a break in the land, show- 

 ing that we had only been coasting along an island. An- 

 other line of coast would also in turn dispel our illusions 

 by another opening, that indicated the promised land to 

 be still beyond. 



Ater a day and a half spent in our attempts at crossing 

 the river, we came in sight of Barcellos ; our approach 

 being first made known to us by our Indians commencing 

 to dress themselves, their keen eyes having discovered the 

 town upon a high bluff in the distance, long before it came 

 within the rang^ of our less acute vision. We arrived at 

 a fortunate time, for the inhabitants were gathered from 

 their conucos to pass the Cliristmas fiesta, and the place 

 was well supplied with food for the occasion. Barcellos 

 was formerly the capital of the province of Rio Negro, 

 but is now a sad picture of fallen houses, streets overgrown 

 with weeds and bushes, with a thick jungle that penetrates 

 through the centre of the town. Some thirty houses still 

 remain, with now and then one whitewashed, and covered 

 with a tiled roof. Most of them are occupied during fiestas, 

 but, when these are over, the people are scattered to their 

 conucos through the forest, when the place presents a still 

 more deserted and forlorn aspect. A small church indi- 

 cated the presence of the padres, who, with indefatigable 

 zeal, have extended their labors to most of the Indian 

 tribes of the country. Blocks of marble lying upon the 

 shore, and bearing the insignia of Portugal, attracted our 

 attention. They had been imported from Europe when 

 Brazil Avas yet a Portuguese colony, and were intended for 

 government buildings, which, however, were never erected. 

 Seeking the house of the ecclesiastic, we were kindly wel- 

 comed ; and the padre, upon learning that for two days we 



