208 CKOSSING THE ANDES. 



appai'atus, led the van, while our party brought up the 

 rear — our little mules being almost buried beneath huge 

 rolls of blankets, saddle-bags, guns, and nondescripts in- 

 dispensable to the traveller among the Cordilleras. 



It was a bright moonlit evening, and, riding until quite 

 late, we drew up at a way-side hut, kept by an old negro, 

 and upon inquiry whether we might pass the night, received 

 tlie usual affirmative of welcome, " Como no ? " Why 

 not ? We knew of no good reason why we should not, 

 and so dismounted. Our arrieros (muleteers) unburdened 

 the mules, hobbled and turned them loose to crop the 

 short herbage immediately about our quarters. Climbing 

 up a rickety ladder, we found ourselves in a small apart- 

 ment, laid with split canes which threatened to break 

 through at every step. Rolling ourselves in our blankets, 

 upon the floor, we were not long in making the discovery 

 that we were in a rich entomological field ; which state 

 of affairs above, in connection with an unfortunate con- 

 junction of circumstances below, rendered even the thought 

 of sleeping preposterous. Directly underneath was a 

 wakeful cock, which insisted upon lusty demonstrations 

 at the most unreasonable hours ; while a calf, tied to one 

 of the supports of the hut, filled the interludes of the 

 heavily-grunting pigs, which, with other domestic ani- 

 mals, occupied the ground-floor of the cabin. 



The shouting of our arrieros, driving in our mules, as- 

 sured us that it was time to prepare for our day's ride. 

 By sunrise we were mounted and passing beneath the 

 dense, heavy forest which, as we have remarked, shades 

 the Pacific shore, and covers the basal portion of the An- 

 des. So thickly sprang the trees, that our loaded animals 

 forced their way along the narrow trail only with the 

 greatest difficulty. Parasites feeding upon parasites 

 marked the eagerness of vegetation; vines twined up- 

 ward round tall, branchless trunks, and drooped from 



