21S CROSSING THE ANDES. 



though Quito was yet distant one hundred miles up the 

 valley to the north. That Avas a memorable night passed 

 at the foot of icy Chimborazo. With the exception of a 

 single cane-arrangement, our room was destitute of sleep- 

 ing-accommodations ; even the mud-projections Avere ab- 

 sent, consequently we spread our beds upon the ground, 

 and, rolling in our blankets, endeavored to obtain a little 

 of " Nature's sweet restorer," but the cold was too intense. 

 With the first indication of light we were up, wrapped in 

 our ponchos, and out reconnoitring our position. Dreary 

 was our upper world. Snow had fallen during the night 

 upon Chimborazo and the surrounding ranges, mantling 

 them far below the usual snow-line ; but the clouds were 

 now broken and driving with a wintry aspect through the 

 heavens. The winds were bitterly cold, and our poor ani- 

 mals, confined in the court-yard with only a low mud-wall 

 for a protection, were trembling from their niglit's expos- 

 ure, and seemed anxious to be mounted. Chimborazo, 

 free from clouds, towered majestically above us ; although 

 we stood at an elevation of over two miles, this colossus 

 of the Andes lifted itself more than nine thousand feet 

 above our tambo. 



From Chuquipoys, a ride of nine miles over a paramo, 

 clothed with heavy tufts of wiry grass called pajo, brought 

 us to Mocha, a sorry-looking town, the most miserable 

 of any passed upon our route. The low mud-huts, with 

 thatched roofs, were common habitation for pigs, poultry, 

 donkeys, and guinea-pigs, which, with half-naked Indian 

 children, strayed in and out of the opening that served as 

 a door. Breakfasting at a wretched hovel, which made 

 some pretensions as a casa posada, we prepared to re- 

 mount, and then was enacted the soul-trying scene of 

 settling accounts with our host. The Ecuadorians have 

 a most peculiar way of transacting such business. A bill 

 is generally made out for each article, and presented sepa- 



