220 CROSSING THE ANDES. 



the more intelligent they become the more curious they 

 are. The first statement is undoubtedly true, but one's 

 faith in the latter is certainly shaken, after having travelled 

 for a time among the ignorant class of Spaniards. No 

 people can be more curious for curiosity's sake than are 

 these. If a traveller stop at one of their houses, they 

 commence at once by asking, ' Whence do you come, 

 where are you going, what is your business, how long 

 will you remain in the country, when will you come to see 

 me again ? ' After this introduction, they pass to more 

 personal matters, and desire to know your name, whether 

 you are married, and, if so, your wife's name, whether you 

 have any children, if boys or girls, and their names, 

 whether you have any brothers and sisters, and what their 

 names are, whether they are married, and, if so, their 

 partners' names, whether their parents be living, and, if 

 so, what their names are. If not married, they want to 

 know if you are in love, if the young lady is pretty, the 

 color of her eyes and hair, what her name is, and the 

 name of her parents. Nor does their curiosity become 

 satisfied when all these questions are satisfactorily an- 

 swered, for they immediately begin upon another strain, 

 viz. : ' Do they use horses in your country ? ' ' Are there 

 any hens there, and do they lay eggs as ours do ? ' ' Are the 

 people of your country white or black ? ' ' Do they drink 

 cofiee ? ' ' Do they have any schools there ? ' ' What is 

 the religion ? ' ' What is your religion ? ' ' Are there any 

 cities in your country ? ' ' Do the people speak Spanish ? ' 

 Thus they pass through the whole category of questions 

 that the mind, memory, and imagination, can devise. Even 

 the servants and muleteers have the audacity to question 

 a traveller upon such matters, and think themselves 

 greatly insulted if every query is not fully and respect- 

 fully answered." 



From Mocha our trail descended gently, and, as we 



