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The kind of equipnent used will depend on the size of field to be fumigated and 

 the grovrers' inclination as to what and how much they want to do themselves. For the 

 commercial size planting, tv/o general methods are available. The easiest and surest, 

 although not the least expensive, is to hire a coirmercial fumigator. He hasthe know- 

 how, equipnent and materials to do a thoroughly satisfactory job. The cost will vary 

 according to the area fumigated and the kind ard amount of fumigant used. 



On the other hand, a mechanically inclined grower can purchase a kit to rig up 

 his am fumigator. There are one and tir/o outlet, gravity feed kits which can be attacli- 

 ed to a one or two bottom plovf. The fumigant is dripped into the furrow ahead of the 

 plow. Or a 2,U,6,or 8 outlet pressure kit may be obtained for attaching to a cxJ-tiva- 

 tor. The pressure is supplied by a small gear punqp hitched to the power take-off of 

 the tractor. An outlet tube is fastened behind each shank of the cultivator with the 

 opening near the bottom of the shank. The shanks are spaced 10 inches apart. Since 

 the amount of fumigant applied is extremely iniportant, directions are STJ^pplied with 

 each kit explaining hovf to adjust it to apply the desired amount, A drag is needed 

 behind the fumigator to seal the gas in the soil. 



For a small area a hand injector can b e used. This is poked into the 

 soil every 10-12 inches and delivers a small amount of fumigant. An injector of this 

 type is fairly rapid, easy to adjust arei handle but is rather expensive, A cheaper, 

 but more laborious method, is to make trenches 6-8 inches deep every 10-12 inches 

 across the field, povir in the fumigant and then cover it immediately. The pouring can 

 be done easily by using a quart, metal-topped frviit jar with two holes punched in the 

 top. The holes are made with an 8 penny nail, one for pouring and one for a vent. 



Regardless of the method of application, the soil needs to be v/ell pre- 

 pared in advance. Thorough plovd.ng and harrovritng are necessary to break up all clods. 

 Any large pieces of orgaiic refuse, such a s tough sods or cornstalks, must have time 

 to thoroughly decompose since the fumigant vj-ill not penetrate them othenvisep In other 

 words, the soil should be well pulverized and moist as if prepared for a good seed bed. 

 Also, it must not be too cold. Effective fumigation can be done between 50 and 85^, 



Fall fumigation avoids late spring planting. If the spring is cold, it may take 

 considerable time for the soil to reach 50°F, A two weeks waiting period is needed 

 after treatment to allow all the fumigant to leave the soil before planting. The last 

 half of September and the month of October are good times to fumigate in most sections 

 of the State, 



There are several very effective soil fumigants. However, \ihen one considers 

 effectiveness, cost and ease of handling, only two are practical for fumigating straw- 

 berry fields. These are D-D at 20 gallons per acre and ethylene dibromide, or EDB at 



9 gallons per acre of a material containing 83 percent EDB by weight. Effective treat- 

 ment requires that these materials be placed 8 inches deep in the soil at intervals of 



10 inches. If fumigating is done ahead of a rain, the water vd.ll help to keep the fumi- 

 gant in the soil and make it more effective. 



So, if you have black-root rot trouble and v/ant to try soil fumigation, 

 prepare the soil thoroughly, see that it is at the right ten^rature, use the right 

 amount of a good soil fumigant, get it down eight inches in the soil and drag the field 

 to hold the gas in the soil. Do this in the fall and avoid delayed planting in the 

 spring, 



John S, Bailey 



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