ment or gloves will not avoid spread without 

 also sterilizing the bark on branches. Also, the 

 sterilization process may be ineffective because 

 the bacteria may already be in the vascular 

 system. He suggests that growers hold off any 

 summer pruning, especially with FB susceptible 

 cultivars like Gala, Jonagold, and Fuji, until 

 after the FB season passes. This likely would 

 be in July and August when conditions are dry 

 and FB strikes are less active. Another ap- 

 proach is to employ the "ugly-stub" cut in the 

 removal of two-year-old wood, leaving a four to 

 five inch stub (P. Steiner, personal communica- 

 tion). Additionally, we are experimenting with 

 the use of other methods to control vigor such 

 as growing trees on a fabric similar to a land- 

 scape weed mat to constrict rooting. Root prun- 

 ing may also be a viable option to control vigor 

 in conjunction with late summer pruning. 



Support 



The best time to install a support system is 

 as soon as possible after the trees have been 

 planted. Do not delay in installing at least the 

 stakes. The support that they provide will en- 

 sure maximum growth. It is recommended that 

 growers consider the use of individual 1/2" bam- 

 boo stakes for each tree in addition to four wires. 

 However, I have seen many growers attempt to 

 reduce costs and not use individual stakes. We 

 have done this and found at this point that the 

 wires are sufficient support. Wires should be 

 strung at heights of 24", 44", 64", and 84". With- 

 out bamboo stakes, more time will be spent try- 

 ing to tie trees to wires snugly enough to pre- 

 vent lateral slippage down the wire. Establish 

 a line post every 50 feet with adequate end 

 posts. 



Plant so that the union is set within a mini- 

 mum of four inches above the soil line for me- 

 chanically planted trees and a minimum of six 

 inches above in augured holes. Prune the leader 

 12 inches above the uppermost feather (a 

 branch at least 10 to 12 inches long). Some 

 growers have had good experience with not 

 pruning the tree at planting. Instead, bend the 

 stem to induce branching. Remove any feath- 



ers that arise from below 24 inches on the leader. 

 Do not whip trees. Keep all branches except 

 those that are more than one half the diameter 

 of the stem. 



First Growing Season 



- At three to six inches of growth, clothes pin 

 the new laterals to a flat angle. 



Attach leader to metal tube, stake, bamboo, 

 or wires (directly) every 18 inches with plas- 

 tic tape (Max Tapener). Snake or bend 

 leader in June if cultivar does not branch 

 readily (e.g. Empire). 



Second Growing Season 



Do not prune in winter Keep terminal bud 

 intact. For more vigorous canopies, snake 

 or replace leader in July. 



In June, remove fruit on leader and one- 

 year-old wood, and single fruits on spurs 

 spaced six inches apart. 



In July, break or remove vigorous non-fruit- 

 ing branches with hands to tear tissue. This 

 needs to be done 2-4 times through first 

 couple weeks in August. Avoid if FB is ap- 

 parent and if weather indicates high risk for 

 FB spread, especially for FB-susceptible 

 cultiv£u-s, particularly in FB strike season. 



Third Growing Season 



In June, thin to six-inch spacing for fruits. 



In July, break or remove vigorous non-ftuit- 

 ing branches with hands to tear tissue. This 

 needs to be done two to four times through 

 the first couple of weeks in August. Avoid if 

 FB is apparent and if weather indicates high 

 risk for FB spread, especially for FB-suscep- 

 tible cultivars. 



Fourth Growing Season 



In winter, concentrate on removing vigor- 

 ous growth which is more than one half the 



Fruit Notes, Summer, 1995 



