LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PLATES. 



WAVES MEETING AND CROSSING IN VERY SHALLOW WATER 



Frontispiece 



PAGE 



A MODERATE GALE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN . . 37 



From S.S. Orizaba. Height of camera 22 feet. 



A STRONG GALE IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC . . -47 



From S.S. Ivernia. Height of camera 40 feet. 



HEAVY SWELL IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC '!" . Ji . $1 



WAVES AND SWELL IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC ' .' ' . 57 



UNDULATING HORIZON OF A ROUGH SEA . . 65 



WEATHER IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC. ' . . . 11$ 



THE PROFILE OF BREAKING WAVES AT EASTBOURNE . 143 



WAVES BREAKING ON A SHINGLE BEACH . . J5 1 



A WAVE BEFORE AND AFTER BREAKING . . .. 155 



WAVE BURSTING AGAINST A VERTICAL WALL . . 159 



BREAKER AND BORES ON A FLAT SHORR . . . .163 



THE FRINGE OF FOAM LEFT BY THE BORE UPON A FLAT 



SHORE . . . . . , ' . !67 



15 



