LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 19 



FIGURES IN THE TEXT. 



PAGE 



COMBINATION OF WAVE AND SWELL . . .98 



A CYCLONIC SYSTEM . . . . . .122 



VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL CURRENTS OF WAVES . . 147 



THE CHESIL BEACH .... . IQI 



CHART SHOWING THE SHAMBLES SHOAL . . . 207 



DIAGRAM OF VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL COMPONENTS OF 



THE TIDE NEAR PORTLAND .... 209 



