AND LOWER EGYPT. 9 



I had made a bargain with the reis (master) of 

 a little kanja, to convey me into Upper Egypt. 

 The boat was to be entirely at my disposal ; no 

 other person had the power of entering it, and I 

 was at liberty to proceed or to stop, at my own 

 discretion. On these conditions I agreed to pay 

 the reis and his boat's company, at the rate of a 

 pataca and three quarters, that is, about seven shil- 

 lings and sixpence a day.^ 



That of our departure was fixed upon. But on 

 arriving at Boulac, we found it impossible to at- 

 tempt sailing up the Nile, The wind blew with 

 so much violence from the south, that no effort 

 could have steered a boat against its impetuosity. 

 Too well pleased with having quitted my gloomy 

 and disquieting situation at Cairo, I was not 

 tempted to return thitherto wait for more favour- 

 able weather, and I preferred passing the day at 

 Boulac. The better to disguise my European 

 appearance, I had thrown aside the sesta at la 

 Druese^ and had adorned my head with a red tur- 

 ban, by means of which, with the other parts of 

 my dress, I passed for a Turk, and I was at liberty 

 to go where I pleased without exciting any obser- 

 vation. This precaution had been suggested to 

 me by Mourat Bey himself: " Disguise thyself 

 " carefujlyj/^ said lie to me b^ jbre my dep arture ; 

 *' equip th yself in such a manner that the most 



*' clear- 



