AND LOWER EGYPT. 239 



certainly have destroyed me, as being one of his 

 creatures. I accordingly took, very much against 

 my inclination, the only step which remained, 

 that of going down the Nile again, the ferocity of 

 the inhabitants softening a little, as well as the 

 darkness of their colour, in proportion as you re- 

 turn towards the north ; besides, I had less to fear 

 in falling in with the partisans of Mourat Bey. 



The Arabian Schekk of Luxor urged me not to 

 delay my departure, but I wished to go once more 

 to the western bank of the river to Gournei, in order 

 to view the remains of the ancient city of Thebes, 

 which were on that side. This point of Thebai's was 

 considered as the most difficult of approach on ac- 

 count of the muhitude of robbers by v/hom alone it 

 was peopled. I have heard the Kiaschefoi Kous say, 

 that he dared not travel there with his small party 

 of Mamelucs and soldiers. The Scheick of Luxor , 

 one of those whose upright and hospitable beha- 

 viour appeared to a greater advantage in a country 

 where they are accustomed to promise much and 

 to perform nothing; this Scheicky I say, also endea- 

 voured to dissuade me from my plan ; and when 

 he saw that I was resolved not to give it up, he 

 pointed out to me, with much polite condescen- 

 sion, the prudential arrangements which might 

 contribute to my safety. This gallant man would 

 accompany me even to the boat which carried me 



on 



