GLIMPSES OF EAST AFRICA AND ZANZIBAR 



most untidy I have ever seen. On the way back 

 there is one pretty little bit, looking down into a 

 little valley, over the green vegetation, with the sea 

 shining below. But the best view of all is not in 

 Zanzibar at all, but looking from Zanzibar over 

 the sea to the sunset, which generally is gloriously 

 coloured and changing, and ships at anchor in the 

 harbour make a picturesque foreground. 



The town of Zanzibar is nearly an island, for at 

 high tide the sea rushes into a creek and almost 

 surrounds the town ; in fact the Khoja burial ground 

 just above the beach is the only piece of high ground 

 which keeps the two parts of the sea from running 

 into each other. This creek is quite dry and often 

 smelly at low tide ; on the farther side of it is the 

 large native quarter called N'Gambo, from which 

 all the wretched little golf " totos " pour at four 

 o'clock. But this part of Zanzibar is infinitely 

 cleaner and better kept than the Indian quarter in 

 the bazaar ; there it is hopelessly dirty and smelly, 

 breeding plague and other horrible diseases. The 

 streets are so narrow and overhung, that the sun 

 in some parts can never penetrate with its disinfect- 

 ing influence. However, they tell me the bazaar 

 is beautifully clean now to what it was before 

 the big outbreak of plague in 1905. The authori- 

 ties insist on sanitary cleanings up, and in the 

 European quarters the refuse from the houses is 

 put outside the doorways, and taken away regularly. 



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