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some fresh hints, we give the detail of his practice. 

 The first season after planting, he says, train one shoot 

 to each rafter, stopping at the first joint all the 

 laterals, and nipping off every tendril. When the 

 shoot has reached three-fourths of the length of the 

 rafter, cut off the bottom laterals, and continue from 

 time to time to remove them all the way up as the 

 wood hardens. This season do not stop the shoot at 

 all, but continue to tie it in across the top of the 

 house, to obtain as long and strong a shoot as possible. 

 The second season prune down to three eyes from the 

 bottom of each rafter, and allow one bunch of fruit 

 to each vine, to prove the kind. Train the uppermost 

 shoot to the rafter, managing in the same way as the 

 first season, excepting stop it by pinching off the end 

 near the top of the rafter, to strengthen the lower 

 buds. The two bottom shoots stop at the third or 

 fourth joint to make spurs. If the vines are strong, 

 they will push again, when stop them at the first 

 joint, repeating this as often as they shoot again. 

 Tie them in at nearly right angles, to give the leading 

 shoot all the benefit of the sun and air. In the third 

 season the vines should be very strong, with short 

 joints and plump buds. If the wood is sound, firm, 

 and of a good brown colour, cut out one third the 

 length of the rafter, which will mostly be six or seven 

 feet. Train the top shoot up the rafter again, repeat- 

 ing the same operations of removing tendrils, stop- 



