METHODS OF FRUIT CULTURE AND FORESTRY. 103 



As we know little of the methods of planting those orchards 

 now found succeeding in turf land, I will give the details of a plan 

 based upon the experience of planting a twent^^-acre lot recently 

 cleared of heavy wood, and a part of an old pasture now in pro- 

 cess of preparation for spring planting. 



In planting fruit trees we must select land suitable to the 

 growth of the fruit we intend to produce. The apple succeeds 

 best upon a deep, moist, sandy loam ; the pear, plum, and quince 

 upon soil heavier than is required for the apple, and the peach and 

 cherry upon lighter and higher land. The process of clearing and 

 planting is as follows : With a reel containing No. 14 galvanized 

 wire, with drops of solder at intervals of fifteen feet, to mark the 

 places for stakes, the land is laid out by first staking off two oppo- 

 site sides, at proper distances ; then from side to side stretch the 

 wire taut enough to raise it above obstacles like large stones, stout 

 brush, etc. At intervals of thirty feet put a large stake for an 

 apple tree, and midway of each space put a smaller stake for a pear, 

 plum, peach, or cherry tree. Then fifteen feet from this set a 

 row of all small stakes for trees of one kind, of lesser growth 

 than apples, and then fifteen feet from this line stake out a line 

 like the first. In this way we have the spaces marked out for 

 apple trees thirty feet apart, and the others intermediate. The dis- 

 tance for the apple trees will be considered by many to be too 

 small ; but if, instead of pruning the trees by cutting out only the 

 inner branches as is commonly done, so as to form a straggling 

 head, the end branches are occasionally headed in, there are 

 but few varieties that will need more than that space. After having 

 the land staked out, if there is much brush — and the more small 

 brush the better — it may be cleared off as suggested for forest- 

 tree planting. If the winter ofl'ers no time for cutting the brush, 

 as described, it may be mown off with a common brush scythe in 

 August. Cut at this time, many 3'oung, tender shoots are thrown 

 out, and, growing late, are often entirely destroyed by the cold. 

 The process of digging the holes has already been described, and 

 sliould begin as soon as the frost is out of the ground, or it may 

 often be done the fall previous to planting. 



It is generally advised not to use any fertilizing material, except 

 the surface soil, in planting fruit or ornamental trees, but I have 

 never seen injury result from the use of well-decomposed manure, 

 ground bone, or bone and potash, in moderate quantities, mixed 

 thoroughly with the soil. Before planting, one to five handfuls of 



