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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE 



upper branches. A tree that is 30 feet 

 or over in height often may be shortened 

 by 10 or 15 feet, and one between 25 and 

 30 feet often may be cut back to about 

 15 or 20 feet. The horizontal branches, 

 as well as the upright ones, may be cut 

 back to advantage, especially with trees 

 seriously lacking in vitality, and also 

 those infested with scale. In heading 

 back the upright branches, the cut is usu- 

 ally made just above a side branch that 

 points outward. This tends to make the 

 tree more spreading in habit. With trees 

 that are naturally spreading and where 

 a more upright growth is desired, the cut- 

 ting may be done just beyond an upright 

 side branch. If this method is followed 

 with all horizontal branches, a much 

 stronger structure will be the result. 



The severity of heading-in will depend 

 largely upon the vigor of the tree. Noth- 

 ing will start a tree into renewed vigor 

 like severe pruning during the dormant 

 season. The cutting-back, therefore, 

 should be more severe with weakened 

 trees. With moderately vigorous trees, 



-...,-ia 



PlR. 2. A Fairly Common Form of Apple Tree. 

 The white lines indicate the points where 

 the chief cuts should be made in pruning a 

 tree of this kind. Besides the branches in- 

 dicated, much of the brush should be re- 

 moved from all parts of the tree. Many of 

 the best branches have been removed from 

 the lower part of the tree in former years. 



there is danger of producing a rank 

 growth in the form of water sprouts. If 

 it is desirable to severely head back such 

 trees, it is better to do it gradually, a 

 little each year, and withhold all nitrog- 

 enous fertilizers. A still better plan 

 would be to remove about half of the re- 

 quired amount of brush during the winter, 

 and the remainder during the growing 

 season. The effect of summer pruning 

 upon the vigor of the tree is just the op- 

 posite to that of winter pruning and will 

 counteract the stimulating effect of the 

 latter. With most of the neglected or- 

 chards, however, the vitality is so low 

 that most of the pruning may be done, 

 without fear of injury, during a single 

 dormant season. 



The severity of cutting back will also 

 depend upon the presence of scale. The 

 work of spraying is greatly simplified and 

 the chances for success in controlling the 

 scale are greatly enhanced by extreme 

 methods of pruning. 



After the trees have been sufficiently 

 headed in, all dead and diseased branches 

 should be removed, and also such other 

 branches as are necessary to produce a 

 condition favorable to the free circulation 

 of air and the admission of sunlight. 

 While it is possible to over-do the pruning 

 process, especially with the best of neg- 

 lected orchards, the average man is more 

 likely to err in the other direction. 



Taking Care of Wounds 



The universal rule in pruning is that 

 all cuts should be closely and smoothly 

 made and that the larger wounds should 

 be painted over to keep out wood decaying 

 fungi. The smaller wounds heal over 

 quickly and will take care of themselves. 

 Before applying the paint, the wood should 

 be allowed to dry. Common lead paint, 

 made up of white lead and boiled linseed 

 oil, is very suitable for this purpose. If 

 desired, a small amount of coloring mat- 

 ter, such as lamp-black, may be mixed 

 with the paint so that the spots will be 

 less conspicuous. 



C. D. Jarvis. 

 Storrs. Conn. 



