THE HOME GARDEN 297 



and fit them for transfer to the open soil. A few hours before 

 the actual transplanting, the soil should be heavily watered. 

 The plants, being "thirsty," will take up enough water to 

 fill their tissues, in which condition they will be able to allow 

 more transpiration. The plants should not be removed from 

 the frames until the soil has become mellow. Puddling the 

 soil by working it while wet should always be avoided. As 

 large a part of the root system should be removed with the 

 plant as possible, and it is well to take as much soil with the 

 roots as will cling to them. 



In transplanting plants to the field one should firm the 

 soil about the roots thoroughly. If a plant is properly trans- 

 planted, watering in the field is scarcely ever necessary, but 

 in the home garden one will insure a stand if he takes no 

 chances and waters the plants. When water is applied, it is 

 always best to pour it into a basin made about the plant, allow- 

 ing it to disappear, and then covering the wet surface with 

 mellow, loose soil. 



The principal factor in causing the death of plants is an 

 excessive transpiration from the leaves. The removal of a 

 part of the top of the plant will reduce the transpiration and 

 often save the plants during a dry period. Not all plants 

 can be "sheared," but onions, beets, celery, and, to a certain 

 extent, cabbage will allow this method. The best implement 

 for transplanting, everything considered, is a pair of human 

 hands. Other serviceable tools are the garden trowel, the 

 dibber, and the spade. In commercial gardening, a trans- 

 planting machine which sets the plants as fast as a team of 

 horses draws the machine is often used. 



