10 BARRELS. 



reverse the mode of boring in order to get strength by 

 friction ; consequently it recoils, and never answers so 

 well. 



For a duck-gun, or piece of any considerable length, 

 the barrel should be bored so as to feel more and more 

 tight on ramming down the wadding, particularly on 

 coming just above where the shot lies ; and with a very 

 little opening, from where the shot lies, down to the 

 breeching. This you will perceive, by a relief to the 

 ramrod, just before the wadding reaches the powder. 

 If, however, the gun is very long, you may then, of 

 course, have the barrel further opened behind, in pro- 

 portion to the length; and, thereby, give more force 

 to the powder, which will enable you, with propriety, 

 to extend the relief forward, and, by that means, get 

 close shooting combined with strength. This is the 

 reason why long barrels may be made to shoot further 

 than short ones. Thus the shot has friction by being 

 forced through the cylinder, and is then gradually re- 

 lieved all the way in going out; and this more in pro- 

 portion again as the shot leaves the muzzle. In a word, 

 the shot should receive all the force of the powder 

 while tight in the barrel, and then, as before observed, 

 go easier and easier all the way out of it. This mode 

 of boring is the best calculated for large wild-fowl guns, 

 because the first friction makes them shoot strong (by 

 means of giving due time to burn the powder), and yet 

 with as much ease, as any caliber that can be made to 

 answer that purpose. 



In answer to many absurd arguments in favour of 

 short guns, and observations about " lateral pressure," 

 I shall here subjoin a schedule, in order to show how 

 were bored the five best guns I ever saw fired, exempli- 



