TO CHOOSE BI11DS. 241 



example, a hen pheasant * or a duck is to be preferred 

 to a cock pheasant or a mallard. The old pheasants 

 may be distinguished by the length and sharpness of 

 their spurs, which, in the younger ones, are short and 

 blunt. Old partridges are always to be known, during 

 the early part of the season, by their legs being of a 

 pale blue, instead of a yellowish brown ; so that, when 

 a Londoner receives his brace of blue-legged birds in 

 September, he should immediately snap their legs, and 

 draw out the sinews, by means of pulling off the feet, 

 instead of leaving them to torment him, like so many 

 strings, when he would be wishing to enjoy his repast. 

 This remedy of making the leg tender removes the ob- 

 jection to old birds, provided the weather will admit of 

 their being sufficiently kept ; and indeed they are then 

 often preferable, from having a higher flavour. 



If birds are overkept their legs will be dry, their 

 eyes much sunk, and the vent will become soft and 

 somewhat discoloured. The first place to ascertain 

 if they are beginning to be high is the inside of 

 their bills, where it is not amiss to put some heather 

 straw, or spice, if you want them to keep for any length 

 of time. Birds that have fallen in the water, or have 

 not had time to get cold, should never be packed like 

 others, but sent openly, and dressed as soon as possible. 

 Partridges are often spoiled in September by being put 

 to ferment in a large bag or pannier, which is car- 

 ried by men on horseback. 



It may perhaps be asked, by some one, on seeing the 



* Provided it is not a very dark-coloured one, which would de- 

 note its being an old barren hen. Such birds, by the way, should 

 always be destroyed as vermin, because they take to sucking the eggs 

 of the others. 



R 



