244 TO CHOOSE HARES. 



one that has been preferred to about fifty others ; and 

 was, at one time, not to be got without the fee of a 

 guinea. 



RECIPE FOR SAUCE TO WILDFOWL. 



Port wine, or claret . . . . 1 glass. 



Sauce a la Russe* (the older it is the better) 1 table spoonful. 



Catsup . : V . ; . . 1 ditto. 



Lemon juice V : ; . . . .1 ditto. 



Lemon peel . ... . . . .1 slice. 



Shalot (large) r . . . . 1, cut in slices. 



Cayenne pepper (the darkest, not that like 1 . . 

 brickdust) . . . . } ^ 



Mace . . ;. . . . .1 or 2 blades 

 To be scalded, strained, and added to the mere gravy, which comes 



from the bird in roasting. 

 To complete this, the fowl should be cut up in a silver dish, that 



has a lamp under, while the sauce is simmering with it. 

 Let a goose, or any strong or fat wildfowl, be roasted with the ad- 

 dition of a small onion, and a pared lemon, in the inside -, as this 



will draw out the strong fat, and give the bird a milder taste. 



Hares and rabbits, when old, have blunt claws ; are 

 broad across the back ; their ears are very tough ; and, 

 when cut, their Jlesh curls up, and remains dry. The 

 first joint of their foreleg is larger and stiffer than in 

 young ones, and their jawbones are very hard. In 

 young hares and rabbits all is the reverse to this : their 

 ears are easily torn, and their jawbones may be cracked 

 with the forefinger and thumb. 



* Sold by Hill, in Albemarle-street ; successor to Mr. Aveling, 

 who first introduced this sauce. 



