COOKING. 459 



boil again the square piece of meat which was reserved. Another 

 necessary part of the recipe also should be prescribed, lest the dish 

 should fall into disrepute. To prevent the deputy cook from help- 

 ing himself, and filling it up with water, let him have a partnership 

 in the concern ; and when he has occasion to quit the room, he 

 should either lock the door, or leave -one of your relay dogs for a 

 sentry. 



You will then have a good wholesome gravy soup to 

 begin with ; and, afterwards, some tender meat, which if 



Eat with mustard, a little raw parsley chopped fine, and a few 

 anchovies, 



you will, it is presumed, find an excellent dish. A pot 

 of anchovies might easily be carried in a portmanteau, 

 being, of all the luxuries from an oil shop, one of the 

 most portable and the most useful. But nothing is 

 worse than a mock anchovy, which is merely a salted 

 bleak, or other inferior small fish, flavoured with a 

 little anchovy liquor. Within these few years, how- 

 ever, the supply has been so good, that you will gene- 

 rally be served with the real Gorgona fish at any re- 

 spectable oil shop. But Mr. Burgess has now, I believe, 

 the largest and choicest importation, Signor Bassano, 

 who was also famous for anchovies, has now set up 

 again at No. 27, Jermyn-street. 



Be careful to keep anchovies in a small stone jar ; as an earthen 

 one might break with them, and spoil your clothes. 



Let me now add the simple receipt for as wholesome 

 a mess as any one who can " rough it" would wish 

 for the dinner, of all others, for an invalid and an 

 alternative against starvation, where there is not even 

 a piece of meat to be got. 



