278 AROUND THE WORLD VIA INDIA. 



as has been represented. In view of these testimonies, 

 I approached the climate of India with a mixed feeling 

 of hope and fear. After having crossed the equator 

 twice on the way from San Francisco to Ceylon, I spent 

 five days in the hot, humid climate of Ceylon, and for 

 the first time fixed my eyes on "India's Coral Strand" 

 early Tuesday morning, August 30. From subsequent 

 experience, I would suggest the following change in 

 the second line of the famous and well-known mis- 

 sionary hymn : 



From Greenland's icy mountains 

 From India's "burning" strand, 



as this change would more forcibly indicate the dif- 

 ference in the climatic conditions of these two places 

 winch these lines are intended to convey. The first im- 

 pression of India in landing at Tuticurin is very dis- 

 appointing. Unlike the South Sea Islands and Cey- 

 lon, the coast is not fringed with palm trees; it is bare 

 and barren. The country is level and vegetation very 

 scanty. The part of India which I traversed, and the 

 tour extended from Tuticurin to Bombay, via Madras. 

 Calcutta, Benares, Allahabad, Agra, Delhi, Jaipur and 

 Ahmeclabad, is entirely devoid of interesting scenery. 

 There are no forest-clad mountains, waterfalls, moun- 

 tain lakes, babbling springs nor clear rivers. Most of the 

 river beds are dry or are a succession of dirty pools, the 

 favorite bathing and drinking places for man and beast. 

 The sacred Ganges at Benares is about the size of 

 the Mississippi at St. Louis. It is the great sewer for 

 millions of people ; its dirty water is credited with great 

 healing power by the superstitious population and is 

 carried in earthern or brass vessels, or pigskins, great 

 distances for drinking purposes, as it is supposed to 

 possess virtues which will prevent and cure all kinds 

 of diseases. When we realize that the river is used as 

 a receptacle for corpses, dead animals and everything 

 that is filthy, it is difficult to comprehend how Mark 

 Twain could come to the conclusion that its water is 



