CONTENTS xi 



PAGE 



CHAPTER XI. 



My new garden — A praying-mantis — Insect mimicry — Bees and 

 wasps — The Persian wheel — The deep wells — The singing as 

 the water is drawn — Legend regarding — The deep wells a great 

 cause of mortality — Sunrise over the Himalaya — A double sun- 

 rise — Flights of aquatic birds — Edible grass seeds — Handmills — 

 Curious birds' nests — Birds, description of some — The rising 

 crops — Landmarks . . . . . . 178 



CHAPTER XIL 



A cold-weather tour — The first march — Evening in a village — 

 A charitable distribution — Through the forest — The Dak 

 Bungalow — An old acquaintance — Elephants — Sunset view — 

 Night in the forest — The Shewalic mountains — The pass 

 through them — First prospect of the Doon . . .199 



CHAPTER XIII. 



The Doon — Short description of — The town of Dehra — The tomb 

 of the Gooroo — The Government tea plantations — Mango 

 trees — Immense size of some — Tea manufacture — Unsuccessful 

 endeavours of the Government to induce the native inhabitants 

 to cultivate the tea plant — The " raos," or watercourses — 

 Violence of the torrents through them in the rainy season . 217 



CHAPTER XIV. 



The Sikh monastery attached to the shrine of the Gooroo— Its 

 internal dissensions — The "Mohunt," the head of monastery, 

 visits me in state — His next visit unceremonious — He has been 

 assaulted — He comes to complain — I present him as a consola- 

 tion with a new headdress — Sketch of the history of the Doon — 

 The fort of Kalunga — Failure of our attack — Death of Sir 

 Rollo Gillespie — The fort abandoned — Burial place of our 

 soldiers who fell in the attack — Weird incident — Anecdote of 

 Sir Rollo Gillespie . . . ... 238 



CHAPTER XV. 

 The Doon passes under English rule — The potato — Said to have 

 led to the establishment of the hill stations of Landour and 

 Mussoorie — Curious marriage customs prevailing in the moun- 

 tain tract attached to the Doon — Description of the tract and 

 its picturesquely situated, small capital — Forest sounds — 

 Memorials of suttee — Was to some extent practised by the 

 Mahomedans — Some optical illusions in regard to the 

 mountains . . . . . 251 



