A COLD WEATHER TOUR 205 



every description, yet in the day-time but few display 

 themselves. Once a small deer trotted across the road, 

 and further on I caught sight of three jackals ; but as 

 to the multitude of the other forest inhabitants, neither 

 by sight nor sound did they give evidence of their 

 existence. 



It was a relief when at length I reached our encamp- 

 ing-ground. It was a small, open space not far from 

 the entrance of the pass which leads through the 

 mountains to the Doon. The carts and servants had 

 already arrived, and the tents were being pitched, and 

 the baggage unladen. There was still an hour or more 

 of daylight remaining ; so, to pass away the time, 

 I strolled up to the dak bungalow, that is, the small 

 house erected by the Government for the accommoda- 

 tion of European travellers. In those days one such 

 bungalow stood at the interval of a few miles along 

 all the great roads in Upper India. 



This bungalow was situated on a small, level spot on 

 a spur of the mountain. It stood about eighty feet 

 above our encamping-ground. The ascent to it was 

 by an easy zigzag path. At the bungalow I met with 

 an old acquaintance in the person of one of the two 

 servants. I had known him for many years, first as 

 a "bearer" — house attendant — in the service of an 

 English family. He was then a Hindoo, meek and 

 placid, and in demeanour very deferential. He had 

 since embraced the Mahomedan faith, and both in 

 manner and appearance he exhibited the influence of 

 his new religion. 



He had adopted of course the Mahomedan dress, 



