Sixty Miles without Water. 103 



where relays of mules are kept for tlie coach, 

 service. On the afternoon of the fourth day Ave 

 arrived at a spot which for beauty of scenery is 

 unrivalled. The abundant presence of palm trees 

 and palm bushes indicated that the tropics had 

 been entered. Many large trees give most grateful 

 shade. The " cream of tartar " tree is a most re- 

 markable growth, in that the circumference of the 

 trunk, from thirty to forty feet, often exceeds the 

 height of the tree itself, and the branches, which 

 are thrown off at the toj), are so disproportionately 

 small, when compared with the trunk, as to give to 

 this tree a most gTotesque and rather weird appear- 

 ance. The fruit hangs in pods about the size of a 

 small cocoanut from the branches, and contains a 

 white, creamy substance highly acid to the taste, 

 which the natives aver is a specific in cases of 

 fever. Our camp was situated about 400 yards 

 from the Limpo230. I Avas strolling along the river 

 bank in the evenino' with a o-un, when I suddenly 

 came upon the most lovely scenery that I ever 

 beheld ; I can only describe it as a combination on 

 a large scale of the tropics, Windsor forest, and a 

 fine reach of the Tay or Tweed. If this was situ- 

 ated in Europe it would be the resort of thousands, 

 and would be covered Avith hotels, villas, and 

 o-ardens. The settino- sun threw on this enchant- 

 ing spot a light of inconceivable loveliness. It was 

 absolutely fairyland, but the fairies were a few 

 ugly naked Kaffirs. At this place we met Major 

 Sapte, military secretary to his Excellency the 

 High Commissioner, Mr. Victor Morier, and Major 

 Gascoigne, on their Av-ay down from Mashonaland. 



