378 ART INDUSTRY AND RELATED OCCUPATIONS. 



4. Textile Industry. 



Hemp, Linen and Muslin. — Banana Fabrics. — Cotton Industry. — 

 Principal Works, Places a?id Chief Notable Products of Silk 



Weaving. — Auxiliaries tJiereto. — Habutai, Crape; Kanoko, 

 Brocade. — Use of Gold and Silver Paper in Brocade. — Velvet 



Weaving. — Embroidery. 



Literature. 



1. E. von Bavier: "Japans Seidenzucht, Seidenhandel und Seiden-Industrie." 

 Zurich, 1874. 



2. "Officielle Berichte iiber die Textil-Industrie auf den grossen Weltaustel- 

 lungen von 1 873-1 876- 1878 zu Wien, Philadelphia, und Paris." 



3. Prestl. : " Technologische Encylopadie, Bd. 14 und Bd. 20." 



4. M. Moyret: " Traite de la Teinture des Soies, etc." Lyon, 1879. 



5. E. Parant: "Etude sur la Fabrication des Tissus." Paris, 1883. 



6. A. Rondot : " Essai sur le Commerce de la Soie en France," Lyon, 1883. 



7. C. G. Gilroy : " The Art of Weaving by Hand and by Power." London, 

 1876. 



8. M. M. : "The Industrial Arts. Historical Sketches." London, 1876. 



In this department the animal raw-material to be considered is 

 chiefly silk ; in vegetable fibres, cotton principally, and hemp, be- 

 sides Bohmeria bast. The last two are a substitute for flax. Their 

 woven tissues are simple, without pattern, and some of them are 

 very fine. Nara Jofu, hemp linen (Asa-nuno), from the old city 

 of Nara in the province of Yamato has a high reputation. It has 

 been already mentioned (p. 165) that hemp is the oldest culti- 

 vated texile plant of Japan, and that the most common clothing 

 of the country people is made of a coarse hemp fabric, coloured 

 blue with indigo. 



Echigo Jofu is a sort of muslin, the linen made from the fibres 

 of the Nettle hemp, Kara-mushi [Boehmeria nivea) from Echigo. 

 It is bleached on the snow, and is not inferior in appearance to the 

 finest hemp linen. A fabric is made by using a strong twisted 

 thread for the woof, which under the influence of steam or a bath 

 crinkles like crape silk (which see). This is called Echigo Jofu 

 Chijimi, which when bleached to simple white or printed in indigo 

 and other colours, furnishes a popular material for light and cool 

 summer clothing, and is much more durable than calico. The 

 Basho-fu or banana fabric of the Riukiu islands has been sufficiently 

 described on p. 168. 



The manufacture and use of cotton materials (Jap. Momen-mono), 

 as well as cotton cultivation, have been promoted since 1600 A.D., 

 first under the Shogunate of Tokugawa. The summer clothing 

 of the more prosperous classes and of the inhabitants of cities 

 generally, has been from that time mainly of cotton. The spin- 

 ning and weaving of cotton, however, has never advanced beyond 



