TEXTILE INDUSTRY. 385 



it by a small addition of indigo. After the bath it is washed, 

 stretched on the cylinder and then dried. 



A Tan, or piece, 60 Japanese feet (i8*i8 m.) long and 19J inches 

 (59 cm.) broad, after coming from the bath had shrunk to 54 feet 

 (i6'377 m.) in length and 14I inches (44 cm.) in breadth, or about 

 10 per cent, in the former and 25*4 per cent, in the latter direction. 

 A very excellent Mon-Chirimen or figured crape is woven at 

 Kano on the Nakasendo. , In order to raise the pattern sufficiently 

 from the dull crape ground, it must be formed by lustrous un- 

 twisted threads, therefore, either in the warp, or also with the aid 

 of special woof threads. In the first case, and that is the common 

 kind, the Mon-Chirimen resembles damask, and differs from figured 

 satin principally in its dull ground. In other cases, the pattern 

 lies upon the surface and the work resembles broche or brocade. 

 The Yama-mai threads are used in a very interesting way for both 

 kinds of Mon-Chirimen. 



In common Yama-mai-non-Chirimen or figured Yama-mai 

 crape, the threads of the oak-spinner (9 to 10 cocoon threads are 

 twisted into one warp thread) are taken and with these or the 

 common warp threads figures are formed which are defined by 

 their different colours. When the web is dyed, which is usually 

 done in Kioto, the Yama-mai threads are still bright and lustrous, 

 as they do not take up the colour. 



The Yama-mai silk is often used in the Shima-chirimen or 

 striped crape for yellowish green, lustrous stripes, and for the 

 figures also of Kudzu-ito-tsumugi or fabrics made from silk waste. 

 But I have never seen fabrics made exclusively from the silk of the 

 Japanese oak-spinners. For all remaining observations I refer to 

 what I have said on this subject on pp. 208-213. 



Kanoko, Kanoko-shibori or Kanoko-sha-chirimen,^ is the name 

 of a peculiar, light, deeply wrinkled silk stuff which is used by 

 Japanese women as a hair ornament or neck band, made into 

 the form of a roll with tassels at the ends. Kanoko is the best 

 material for both these purposes. It is usually dyed a beautiful red 

 or violet colour, with larger or smaller round white spots, regularly 

 scattered over it in reticular form at intervals of one centimeter or 

 more. It is made only in Kioto, and in the following manner. 



Two breadths of a very light crape made in the province of 

 Tango are taken just as they come from the loom, stiffened and 

 pasted together with Funori (sea- weed paste). When dry, the 

 pattern is drawn, usually straight lines crossing each other at right 

 angles, then the material is rubbed thoroughly with the hands to 

 make it soft and pliant again. When this is done, the under-bind- 

 ing follows. For this process, a frame on which a brass hook is 

 fastened is commonly used. The fabric is caught on this hook and 

 pulled out, at each crossing of the lines in the design, and then 



^ Kanoko : <2. a young deer ; b. spotted like a young deer ; Shibori : bound, 

 buttoned ; Sha : silk flower fabric, or gauze with simple warp ; Chirimen : crape. 

 II. C C 



