2.] AMONG THE GAUCHOS. '^ 53 



/ neard from my guide that we did so. He eyed me with 

 ' much suspicion ; perhaps he had heard of ablutions in 

 the Mahomedan religion, and knowing me to be a heretic, 

 \ probably he came to the conclusion that all heretics were 

 Turks. It is the general custom in this country to ask 

 for a night's lodging at the first convenient house. The 

 astonishment at the compass, and my other feats in 

 jugglery, was to a certain degree advantageous, as with 

 that, and the long stories my guide told of my breaking- 

 stones, knowing venomous from harmless snakes, collect- 

 ing insects, etc., I repaid them for their hospitality. I 

 am writing as if I had been among the inhabitants of 

 Central Africa : Banda Oriental would not be flattered 

 by the comparison ; but such were my feelings at the 

 time. 



The next day we rode to the village of Las Minas. The 

 country was rather more hilly, but otherwise continued the 

 same ; an inhabitant of the Pampas no doubt would have 

 considered it as truly Alpine. The country is so thinly 

 inhabited, that during the whole day we scarcely met a 

 single person. Las Minas is much smaller even than 

 Maldonado. It is seated on a little plain, and is surrounded 

 by low rocky mountains. It is of the usual symmetrical 

 form ; and with its whitewashed church standing in the 

 centre, had rather a pretty appearance. The outskirting 

 houses rose out of the plain like isolated beings, without the 

 accompaniment of gardens or courtyards. This is generally 

 the case in the country, and all the houses, have, in con- 

 sequence, an uncomfortable aspect. At night we stopped 

 at a pulperia, or drinking-shop. During the evening a 

 great number of Gauchos came in to drink spirits and 

 smoke cigars : their appearance is very striking ; they are 

 generally tall and handsome, but with a proud and dissolute 

 expression of countenance. They frequently wear their 

 moustaches, and long black hair curling down their backs. 

 With their brightly coloured garments, great spurs clank- 

 ing about their heels, and knives stuck as daggers (and 

 often so used) at their waists, they look a very different race 

 of men from what might be expected from their name of 

 Gauchos, or simple countrymen. Their politeness is ex 

 cessive ; they never drink their spirits without expecting; 

 you to taste it ; but whilst making their exceedingly graceful 

 bow, they seem quite as ready, if occasion offered, to cut 

 your throat. 



