1833.] THE PAMPAS THISTLE. 153 



Dbliged if I would answer with all truth. I trembled to 

 think how deeply scientific it would be ; it was, ** Whether 

 the ladies of Buenos Ayres were not the handsomest in the 

 world?" I replied, like a renegade, ** Charmingly so." 

 He added, ** I have one other question : Do ladies in any 

 other part of the world wear such large combs ? " I 

 solemnly assured him that they did not. They were 

 absolutely delighted. The captain exclaimed, " Look there ! 

 a man who has seen half the world says it is the case ; 

 we always thought so, but now we know it." My excellent 

 judgment in combs and beauty procured me a most hospit- 

 able reception ; the captain forced me to take his bed, and 

 he would sleep on his recado. 



November 21st. — Started at sunrise, and rode slowly 

 during the whole day. The geological nature of this part 

 of the province was different from the rest, and closely 

 resembled that of the Pampas. In consequence, there were 

 immense beds of the thistle, as well as of the cardoon : 

 the whole country, indeed, may be called one great bed of 

 these plants. The two sorts grow separate, each plant in 

 company with its own kind. The cardoon is as high as 

 a horse's back, but the Pampas thistle is often higher than 

 the crown of the rider's head. To leave the road for a yard 

 is out of the question ; and the road itself is partly, and 

 in some cases entirely, closed. Pasture, of course, there 

 is none ; if cattle or horses once enter the bed, they are 

 for the time completely lost. Hence it is very hazardous 

 to attempt to drive cattle at this season of the year ; for 

 when jaded enough to face the thistles, they rush among 

 them, and are seen no more. In these districts there are 

 very few estancias, and these few are situated in the 

 neighbourhood of damp valleys, where fortunately neither 

 of these overwhelming plants can exist. As night came 

 on before we arrived at our journey's end, we slept at a 

 miserable little hovel inhabited by the poorest people. The 

 extreme though rather formal courtesy of our host and 

 hostess, considering their grade of life, was quite delightful. 



Novembet 22nd, — Arrived at an estancia on the Berquelo 

 belonging to a very hospitable Englishman, to whom I had 

 a letter of introduction from my friend Mr. Lumb. I stayed 

 here three days. One morning I rode with my host to the 

 Sierra del Pedro Flaco, about twenty miles up the Rio 

 Negro. Nearly the whole country was covered with good 

 though coarse grass, which was as high as a horse's belly ; 



