254 AT VALPARAISO. [chap. xii. 



seen. When the sun was setting in the Pacific, it was 

 admirable to watch how clearly their rugged outlines could 

 be distinguished, yet how varied and how delicate were the 

 shades of their colour. 



I had the good fortune to find living here Mr. Richard 

 Corfield, an old schoolfellow and friend, to whose hospitality 

 and kindness I was greatly indebted, in having afforded me 

 a most pleasant residence during the Beagle's stay in Chile. 

 The immediate neighbourhood of Valparaiso is not very 

 productive to the naturalist. During the long summer the 

 wind blows steadily from the southward, and a little off 

 shore, so that rain never falls ; during the three winter 

 months, however, it is sufficiently abundant. The vegeta- 

 tion in consequence is very scanty ; except in some deep 

 valleys, there are no trees, and only a little grass and a 

 few low bushes are scattered over the less steep parts of 

 the hills. When we reflect, that at the distance of 356 

 .rniles to the south, this side of the Andes is completely 

 hidden by one impenetrable forest, the contrast is very 

 remarkable. I took several long walks while collecting 

 objects of natural history. The country is pleasant for 

 exercise. There are many very beautiful flowers ; and, 

 as in most other dry climates, the plants and shrubs 

 possess strong and peculiar odours — even one's clothes by 

 brushing through them became scented. I did not cease 

 from wonder at finding each succeeding day as fine as the 

 foregoing. What a difference does climate make in the 

 enjoyment of life ! How opposite are the sensations when 

 viewing black mountains half enveloped in clouds, and 

 seeing another range through the light blue haze of a fine 

 day ! The one for a time may be very sublime ; the other 

 is all gaiety and happy life. 



August 14M. — I set out on a riding excursion, for the 

 purpose of geologising the basal parts of the Andes, which 

 alone at this time of the year are not shut up by the winter 

 snow. Our first day's ride was northward along the sea- 

 coast. After dark we reached the Hacienda of Quintero, 

 the estate which formerly belonged to Lord Cochrane. 

 My object in coming here was to see the great beds ot 

 shells, which stand some yards above the level of the sea, 

 and are burnt for lime. The proofs of the elevation of this 

 whole line of coast are unequivocal : at the height of a few 

 hundred feet old-looking shells are numerous, and I found 

 some at 1300 feet. These shells either lie loose on the 



