1834.] THE GUASOS. 259 



Pampas, are, however, a very different set of beings. Chile 

 is the more civilised of the two countries, and the in- 

 habitants, in consequence, have lost much individual 

 character. Gradations in rank are much more strongly 

 marked ; the Guaso does not by any means consider every 

 man his equal ; and I was quite surprised to find that my 

 companions did not like to eat at the same time with myself. 

 This feeling of inequality is a necessary consequence of the 

 existence of an aristocracy of wealth. It is said that some 

 few of the greater landowners possess from five to ten 

 thousand pounds sterling per annum ; an inequality of 

 riches which I believe is not met with in any of the cattle- 

 breeding countries eastward of the Andes. A traveller does 

 not here meet that unbounded hospitality which refuses all 

 payment, but yet is so kindly offered that no scruples can be 

 raised in accepting it. Almost every house in Chile will 

 receive you for the night, but a trifle is expected to be given 

 in the morning ; even a rich man will accept two or three 

 shillings. The Gaucho, although he may be a cut-throat, 

 is a gentleman ; the Guaso is in few respects better, but at 

 the same time a vulgar, ordinary fellow. The two men, 

 although employed much in the same manner, are different 

 in their habits and attire ; and the peculiarities of each are 

 universal in their respective countries. The Gaucho seems 

 part of his horse, and scorns to exert himself excepting 

 when on its back ; the Guaso may be hired to work as a 

 labourer in the fields. The former lives entirely on animal 

 food ; the latter almost wholly on vegetable. We do not 

 here see the white boots, the broad drawers, and scarlet 

 chilipa ; the picturesque costume of the Pampas. Here, 

 common trousers are protected by black and green worsted 

 leggings. The poncho, however, is common to both. The 

 chief pride of the Guaso lies in his spurs ; which are 

 absurdly large. I measured one which was six inches in 

 the diameter of the rowel, and the rowel itself contained 

 upwards of thirty points. The stirrups are on the same 

 scale, each consisting of a square, carved block of wood, 

 hollowed out, yet weighing three or four pounds. The 

 Guaso is perhaps more expert with the lazo than the 

 Gaucho ; but, from the nature of the country, he does not 

 know the use of the bolas. 



August iHtA. — We descended the mountain, and passed 



nine beautiful little spots, with rivulets and fino (ro<»s. 



Having slept at the same hacienda as before, a. >de 



