1834.] ALONG THE COAST. 281 



wind lulled and roared again through the rigging : It was 

 an ominous, sublime scene. During a few minutes there 

 was a bright rainbow, and it was curious to observe the 

 effect of the spray, which, being carried along the surface of 

 the water, changed the ordinary semicircle into a circle — a 

 band of prismatic colours being continued, from both feet of 

 the common arch across the bay, close to the vessel's side : 

 thus forming a distorted, but very nearly entire ring. 



We stayed here three days. The weather continued bad ; 

 but this did not much signify, for the surface of the land in 

 all these islands is all but impassable. The coast is so very 

 rugged that to attempt to walk in that direction requires 

 continued scrambling up and down over the sharp rocks of 

 mica-slate ; and, as for the woods, our faces, hands, and 

 shin-bones all bore witness to the maltreatment we received, 

 in merely attempting to penetrate their forbidden recesses. 



December \Zth. — We stood out to sea. On the 20th we 

 bade farewell to the south, and with a fair wind turned the 

 ship's head northward. From Cape Tres Montes we sailed 

 pleasantly along the lofty weather-beaten coast, which is 

 remarkable for the bold outline of its hills, and the thick 

 covering of forest even on the almost precipitous flanks. 

 The next day a harbour was discovered, which on this 

 dangerous coast might be of great service to a distressed 

 vessel. It can easily be recognised by a hill 1600 feet high, 

 which is even more perfectly conical than the famous sugar- 

 loaf at Rio de Janeiro. The next day, after anchoring, I 

 succeeded in reaching the summit of this hill. It was a 

 laborious undertaking, for the sides were so steep that in 

 some parts it was necessary to use the trees as ladders. 

 There were also several extensive brakes of the fuchsia, 

 covered with its beautiful drooping flowers, but very difficult 

 to crawl through. In these wild countries it gives much 

 delight to gain the summit of any mountain. There is an 

 iindefinite expectation of seeing something very strange, 

 jwhich, however often it may be balked, never failed with 

 me to recur on each successive attempt. Every one must 

 know the feeling of triumph and pride which a grand view 

 from a height communicates to the mind. In these little 

 frequented countries there is also joined to it some vanity, 

 [that you perhaps are the first man who ever stood on this 

 pinnacle or admired this view. 



I A strong desire is always felt to ascertain whether an^ 

 Ihuman being has previously visited an unfrequented post 



