1835.] HERDS OF SEALS. 283 



shaped poincs. These two formations, thus differing in 

 their outlines, agree in being almost destitute of vegetation. 

 This barrenness had to our eyes a strange appearance, from 

 having been so long accustomed to the sight of an almost 

 universal forest of dark green trees. 1 took much delight 

 in examining the structure of these mountains. The com- 

 plicated and lofty ranges bore a noble aspect of durability 

 — equally profitless, however, to man and to all other 

 animals. Granite to the geologist is classic ground : from 

 its widespread limits, and its beautiful and compact texture, 

 few rocks have been more anciently recognised. Granite 

 has given rise, perhaps, to more discussion concerning its 

 origin than any other formation. We generally see it 

 constituting the fundamental rock, and, however formed, 

 we know it is the deepest layer in the crust of this globe 

 to which man has penetrated. The limit of man's know- 

 ledge in any subject possesses a high interest, which is 

 perhaps increased by its close neighbourhood to the realms 

 of imagination. 



January ist^ 1835. — The new year is ushered in with the 

 ceremonies proper to it in these regions. She lays out no 

 false hopes ; a heavy north-western gale, with steady rain, 

 bespeaks the rising year. Thank God, we are not destined 

 here to see the end of it, but hope then to be in the Pacific 

 Ocean, where a blue sky tells one there is a heaven — a 

 something beyond the clouds above our heads. 



The north-west winds prevailing for the next four days, 

 we only managed to cross a great bay, and then anchored 

 in another secure harbour. I accompanied the captain in 

 a boat to the head of a deep creek. On the way the number 

 of seals which we saw was quite astonishing; every bit of 

 flat rock, and parts of the beach, were covered with them. 

 They appeared to be of a loving disposition, and lay 

 huddled together, fast asleep, like so many pigs ; but 

 even pigs would have been ashamed of their dirt, and 

 of the foul smell which came from them. Each herd was 

 watched by the patient but inauspicious eyes of the turkey- 

 buzzard. This disgusting bird, with its bald scarlet head, 

 formed to wallow in putridity, is very common on the west 

 coast, and their attendance on the seals shows on what they 

 rely for their food. We found the water (probably only that 

 of the surface) nearly fresh : this was caused by the number 

 mT torrents wiiich, in the form of cascades, came tumbling 



\er the bold granite mountains into the sea. The fresh 



