1835.] IN A PERIAGUA. 293 



ni^ht was cloudless ; and while lying in our beds, we 

 enjoyed the sight (and it is high enjoyment) of the multitude 

 of stars which illumined the darkness of the forest. 



January 2yd. — We rose early in the morning, and 

 reached the pretty quiet town of Castro by two o'clock. 

 The old governor had died since our last visit, and a 

 Chileno was acting in his place. We had a letter of 

 introduction to Don Pedro, whom we found exceedingly 

 hospitable and kind, and more disinterested than is usual 

 on this side of the continent. The next day Don Pedro 

 procured us fresh horses, and offered to accompany us him- 

 self. We proceeded to the south — generally following the 

 coast, and passing through several hamlets, each with its 

 large barn-like chapel built of wood. At Vilipilli, Don Pedro 

 asked the commandant to give us a guide to Cucao. The 

 old gentleman offered to come himself ; but for a long time 

 nothing would persuade him that two Englishmen really 

 wished to go to such an out of the way place as Cucao. 

 We were thus accompanied by the two greatest aristocrats 

 in the country, as was plainly to be seen in the manner 

 of all the poorer Indians towards them. At Chonchi we 

 struck across the island, following intricate winding paths, 

 sometimes passing through magnificent forests, and some- 

 times through pretty cleared spots, abounding with corn 

 and potato crops. This undulating woody country, partially 

 cultivated, reminded me of the wilder parts of England, ancl 

 therefore had to my eye a most fascinating aspect. At 

 Vilinco, which is situated on the borders of the lake of 

 Cucao, only a few fields were cleared ; and all the inhabi- 

 tants appeared to be Indians. This lake is twelve miles 

 long, and runs in an east and west direction. From local 

 circumstances, the sea-breeze blows very regularly during 

 the days, and during the night it falls calm : this has given 

 rise to strange exaggerations, for the phenomenon, as 

 described to us at San Carlos, was quite a prodigy. 



The road to Cucao was so very bad that we determined 

 to embark in a periagua. The commandant, in the most 

 authoritative manner, ordered six Indians to get ready to 

 {>iill us over, without deigning to tell them whether they 

 would be paid. The pcniagua is a strange rough boat, but 

 Ihe crew were still stranger : I doubt if six uglier little men 

 'ver got into a boat together. They pulled, however, very 



veil and cheerfully. Tlie stroke-oarsman gabbled Indian, 

 and uttered strang(; cries, much after the fashion of h 



