1835.] AMONG THE INDIANS. 299 



generally grave, and even austere, and possesses much 

 character : this may pass either for honest bluntness or 

 fierce determination. The long black hair, the grave 

 and much-lined features, and the dark complexion, called 

 to my mind old portraits of James I. On the road we 

 met with none of that humble politeness so universal in 

 Chiloe. Some gave their **mari-mari" (good-morning) 

 with promptness, but the greater number did not seem 

 inclined to offer any salute. This independence of manners 

 is probably a consequence of their long wars, and the 

 repeated victories which they alone, of all the tribes In 

 America, have gained over the Spaniards. 



I spent the evening very pleasantly, talking with the 

 padre. He was exceedingly kind and hospitable ; and 

 coming from Santiago, had contrived to surround him- 

 self with some few comforts. Being a man of some 

 little education, he bitterly complained of the total want 

 of society. With no particular zeal for religion, no business 

 or pursuit, how completely must this man's life be wasted ! 

 The next day, on our return, we met seven very wild- 

 looking Indians, of whom some were caciques that had 

 just received from the Chilian Government their yearly 

 small stipend for having long remained faithful. They 

 were fine-looking men, and they rode one after the other 

 with most gloomy faces. An old cacique, who headed 

 them, had been, I suppose, more excessively drunk than 

 the rest, for he seemed both extremely grave and very 

 crabbed. Shortly before this, two Indians joined us, who 

 were travelling from a distant mission to Valdivia con- 

 cerning some lawsuit. One was a good-humoured old 

 man, but from his wrinkled beardless face looked more like 

 an old woman than a man. I frequently presented both 

 of them with cigars ; and though ready to receive them, 

 and I daresay grateful, they would hardly condescend to 

 thank me. A Chllotan Indian would have taken off his 

 hat, and given his " Dios le page!" The travelling was 

 very tedious, both from the badness of the roads, and from 

 the number of great fallen trees, which It was necessary 

 either to leap over or to avoid by making long circuits. 

 We slept on the road, and next morning reached Valdivia, 

 whence I proceeded on board. 



A few days afterwards I crossed the bay with a party 

 of officers and landed near the fort called Nicbla. The 

 buildings were in a most ruinous state, and the gun 



